Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
June 27, 2010
Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
http://www.terryscomputertips.com
A computer tips newsletter for users of PC's.
Volume 6, Number 02 — Sunday, June 27, 2010
IN THIS ON-LINE ISSUE:
1. Why Should I Use Replicator AND Acronis True Image Home 2010?
2. Replacing My Notebook With a Desktop Computer
3. A Look at the Lancool PC-K58W "Dragonlord" Case
4. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
Welcome to the on-line edition of my Terry's Computer Tips newsletter. Its articles are not in my weekly email issue — and the email articles aren't in the online issue.
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1. Why Should I Use Replicator AND Acronis True Image Home 2010?
Long-time reader Janusz Lukasiak wrote recently to point out some basic differences between Karen's Replicator and Acronis True Image Home.
I use and recommend both for backing up your data and your system, but the summary of my recommendations that's in the newsletter doesn't have all the details that are in my various articles on the two programs.
Janusz points out a possible problem falacy in using only Acronis True Image Home to back up your computer.
Dear Terry,
In your latest newsletter http://www.terryscomputertips.com/archives/news_20100620.php you say:
"Why use both Replicator and Acronis True Image Home, if we can restore individual files from both? Replicator will always have the latest version it backed up [...] With Acronis True Image, we can have multiple versions of the files to choose among."
This is undoubtedly true, but I think you miss one important point. Karen's Replicator is basically a copy facility, with some bells and whistles added (very nice ones, IMHO). Acronis (or any other 'disc imager') stores the backup in a proprietary format, which is useless unless the same program is run again to restore the file(s).
So, if something terrible happens to your PC, you can take the Replicator's output and access it from any other Windows machine straightaway. This is important for files which you may need in a hurry, before you have time to completely restore your hardware/software.
My advice would be (a) use Replicator regularly (daily or so) for "work in progress" (b) run Acronis say once week or two and before any major reconfiguration of your system.
Kind regards
Janusz Lukasiak
Janusz has some great points and excellent advice. Don't use only Replicator or only Acronis True Image Home to do your backups. Both are excellent programs and both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Acronis stores its backups in its own proprietary .tib format, by default. Recent versions (2009 and 2010) also give you the option to store in standard .zip files. That can solve the "proprietary" issue about which Janusz was concerned. Of course, most of us won't change the storage format, either.
By keeping your data backed up to another drive or another computer using Replicator, you can have a data file backup available whenever you need it. It will be accessible with normal Windows functions.
By backing up your computer, or at least your Windows partition, using Acronis True Image Home, you've created your own Recovery DVDs or recovery image files (you can tell ATIH to break the image files into DVD-sized files as it makes the backup, so you can put them on DVD). That way, you can use the bootable Acronis True Image Home cdrom to boot your computer and restore from your backup file, whether it's on DVD's, an external hard drive, or even across your home computer.
By the way, if you buy Acronis True Image Home 2010 (or any other version), be sure ot register it. Acronis is about the only company I know of who makes this a desirable thing to do. Acronis provides updates to its program versions, and additional downloads, via their My Acronis page.
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2. Replacing My Notebook With a Desktop Computer
I built this computer to be my personal desktop. It's a replacement for my Dell Inspiron 8600 notebook, which has been my main computer for the last six years. As a Dell customer for 16 years (I bought my first Dell desktop and my first Dell laptop in 1994), I was all ready to replace the I8600 with a new top-of-the-line Dell notebook. I placed my order and called them to clarify and tweak some points.
Unfortunately, Dell changed their practices regarding Operating System disks, and joined the rest of the industry in supplying only recovery DVD's — or making you make your own recovery DVD's. They thoroughly aggravated me with this change and how they treated it the ordering process — and have lost a customer. That cost them the sale of a top of the line Studio XPS 16 notebook and a top of the line Alienware M11x notebook to be purchased a couple months later.
I looked at alternative notebooks, and then broadened my horizons a bit. As a result, I've now built a desktop to replace the old Dell notebook. The wireless keyboard, wireless mouse and LCD monitor will sit on the laptop stand that I will continue to use in my den.
For my mobile needs, I've ordered a fast, much cheaper notebook from someone else. More about that notebook in a future issue.
So, let's take a look at the components of the new desktop...
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LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58W Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window |
I chose this case for its extreme ease in building the PC — the inexpensive price was a real surprise. There's lots of room and is almost a tool-less installation, not even screws for hard drives or for two optical drives.
I had to use 4 screws (included) to mount the power supply — but there's also a mounting strap that holds the power supply into place. The motherboard mounts into place with thumbscrews (included). The hard drives mount into removable trays using nicely-designed plastic clips.
The optical drives (up to 2 will mount this way) use a side lever that simply unclips, swings to the left, you line up the drive, swing the lever back towards the front, and click into place. PCI and PCI-E cards are held into place by a metal lever-based system (not screws and not the typical easily-breakable plastic card mounting system).
I bought a Lian Li case for my home theater PC that has a lot more room, and is all aluminum, but it was over 100% higher in price. There is an aluminum version of this case, with a different exterior, marketed under the Lian Li name, rather than under the Lancool name, which was about 50% more.
Did I like the case? YES! I'm tempted to buy another just to replace the case in my wife's new desktop — this is a much better case. That one is OK, though, so I'm resisting the temptation...
See more details on this case in the article below "A Look at the Lancool PC-K58W Dragonlord Case"
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GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P ATX Intel Motherboard w/ USB 3.0 & SATA 6 Gb/s |
For the motherboard, I picked a GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P that was very similar to the GA-P55-U4P model that I used for my home theater PC and the Gigabyte model Gigabyte model GA-P55A-U3P that I used for my wife's desktop.
The biggest changes from the GA-P55-U4P (home theater PC) were the addition of 2 SATA 6Gb/sec connectors, the addition of USB 3.0 (2 connectors), loss of one PCIEx1 card socket and a heatsink relocated. This allows me to install a maximum of 8 GB RAM, which I chose to do.
From the more recent GA-P55A-U3P motherboard, the biggest changes were one more PCI Express x1 slot, one less PCI slot, and two eSATA 3GB/s connections.
Click here to see more about this motherboard.
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Intel Core i5-750 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor |
I used the same processor in my wife's desktop. Actually, I planned to put this processor into my home theater PC and pull the processor from it (a slightly more powerful Intel Core i7-860) into my desktop. I may still make the change later, but that wasn't important at the moment.
This processor is great, especially since its pricing is at the "sweet spot," meaning the next more-powerful processor is slightly more powerful and significantly higher in price.
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Thermaltake Silent 1156 CLP0552 92mm CPU Cooler For Intel Socket LGA1156 |
I used this cooler instead of the stock Intel cooler. This is the same cooler that I picked for both my home theater PC and my wife's desktop.
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GIGABYTE Radeon HD 5570 GV-R557OC-1GI Video Card |
I chose this video card not quite at random. I don't do much on my computer that is video intensive — few games, and none of them are the type that demand super graphics performance. I was more interested in having a good card that included both VGA and HDMI outputs. The Gigabyte Radeon HD 5570 has 1GB of its own DDR3 RAM and uses a PCI Express 2.1 x16 slot.
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Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive |
I got this a few weeks back at NewEgg for a different purpose. I still hadn't used it, so it was available for use in this project.
I set up a 600 GB primary partition for Windows 7 and programs and a 900 GB partition for my data files.
I'll probably add another drive to this later, to be used as a destination for backing up my system with Acronis True Image Home 2010 and Karen's Replicator. I'll still make backups across my home network using ATIH and Replicator. But, I'll probably make those less frequent and use an internal hard drive for the most frequent backups.
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Antec TruePower New TP-750 750W Continuous Power "compatible with Core i7" Power Supply |
I've used Antec cases and power supplies for a long time, and been happy with them, too. I used this power supply in my home theater PC and one of the Antec EarthWatts EA750 model in my wife's desktop.
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G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory |
Gigabyte has a table on their web site of the memory that they've tested with each of their motherboards. This was one of those. I picked the DDR3 1600 speed this time, where I had picked the DDR3 2000 speed for the other two computers.
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ViewSonic X Series VX2439WM 23.6" 2ms Widescreen Full HD 1080p LCD Monitor Built-in Speakers |
All I can say is "Wow!" I'm feeding both the video and audio via the single HDMI cable from the video card. At first I was concerned because I wasn't getting any Windows sounds. Then, I realized I had not loaded the drivers for the monitor yet. That made all the difference...
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ERGOTRON 33-310-060 Neo-Flex LCD Stand |
This third-party stand uses the standard connectors on the back of most LCD monitors that are made for wall-mounts. The round base has a built-in "Lasy Susan" and will swivel 270 degrees, so I can easily rotate the monitor to show something to my wife. The stand allows the LCD to slide up and down, tilt slightly left and right, and tilt 10 degrees forward and 30 degrees towards the back. I was immediately impressed — and I still am...
Why did I need it? I'm using it on my laptop stand in the den — and I want to be able to look over it to see the television. This stand took about 3 inches off the monitor's height when mounted on the original ViewSonic stand.
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Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Full |
Windows 7. Which version do you need, Home Premium, Professional or Ultimate? The Anytime Upgrade is quite expensive to Ultimate, but Ultimate was only about $20 over the price of Professional, which I used on my other PC's.
I decided to give Ultimate a chance. So far, I haven't found much of anything different, especially since I probably won't use Bitlocker.
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Logitech diNovo Keyboard for Notebooks |
I chose this some time back as an alternative keyboard for my notebook. It's a heavy, well-made and nice-feeling keyboard. I've decided to use it for my desktop.
For an alternative, I would consider the Interlink Versapoint Communicator, which I'm using on my home theater PC:![]() |
Interlink Versapoint Communicator |
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Logitech V450 Nano Cordless Laser Mouse for Notebooks (Red) |
While my hands are not particularly small, I prefer the size of the notebook mice. Notice the tiny USB dongle — it's great for notebooks and works fine for larger computers, too. The mouse uses two AA batteries for better battery life.
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3. A Look at the Lancool PC-K58W "Dragonlord" Case
I chose the Lancool PC-K58W Dragonlord case for my new desktop computer because of the extreme ease of working inside the case. The tool-less design is well done and there's plenty of room, too. The inexpensive price was a nice surprise.
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LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58W Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window |
There's lots of room in this case, both for your hands while assembling it and, more imporantly, for additional drives, cards and even fans to be added later. It has an almost a tool-less installation, not even screws for hard drives or for two optical drives.
I did use 4 screws (included) to mount the power supply — but there's also a mounting strap that holds the power supply into place. The power supply can be mounted with the large intake fan either facing up towards the motherboard or down towards the floor. In other words, you can either use warm air from inside the case to cool your power supply, or you can pull fresh air from outside the case. Your choice.
For my desktop, the case is going to be sitting on carpet, so the ventilation opening on the bottom of the case would be blocked by the carpet. I elected to mount the power supply with the large intake fan pointed into the case. Fortunately, the back of the case has screw positions for mounting the power supply in either orientation. Of course, the heavy mounting strap doesn't care either way.
The motherboard mounts into place using included thumbscrews. The hard drives mount into removable trays using nicely-designed plastic clips.
The optical drives (up to 2 will mount this way) use a side lever that simply unclips, swings to the left, you line up the drive, swing the lever back towards the front, and click into place. PCI and PCI-E cards are held into place by a metal lever-based system (not screws and not the typical easily-breakable plastic card mounting system).
The two images below show the complete inside of the case, with the back of the case on the left side and the front on the right. In the left image, notice the 120mm exhaust fan at the top, the card retention system for 7 PCI-e or PCI cards, and the power supply on the bottom left. Also notice the DVD drive at the top right, with the black power and gold data SATA cables running to it.
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The right-hand image is a little shift to the right, in order ot give a better view of the five internal 5.25 inch bays and four 3.5 inch hard drive bays. There's lots of room to tuck cables to make the case a little neater.
The picture on the lower left shows one of the hard drive trays partially extracted. The front left frame for the hard drive cages has a sliding metal bar with a silver thumbscrew. At this point, it is in the lower "locked" position, although I haven't tightened the thumbscrew. Lift on the thumbscrew and the locking bar slides upwards so that the drive trays can be inserted or removed.
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![]() (click on the image for a larger version) |
The right image above shows a closeup of the PCI/PCI-E retention mechanism. With this case, we don't have to mess with screws, nor with a cheap breakable plastic retention system. The silver pieces pointing down are the locking levers. Pull them up to unlock, so you can insert or remove a card. Push them down to latch the cards into place. This is the same mechanism as on the Lian Li case I used for my home theater PC.
The picture on the lower left is a rear view of the case's 5.25 inch drive bay, which will hold up to five 5.25 inch devices.
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The image on the above right is one of the removable hard drive trays. If you look carefully, you can see that there's a black plastic bracket on one side of the tray, but not on the other (the side at the bottom). I've removed one of the plastic brackets, and it's laying to the right of the tray.
Below, you can see a different view, to give you a better view of the bracket. By the way, notice the black bump on the top right edge of the bracket? The bracket has rubber grommets already mounted to the removable brackets. These are part of the retention mechanism and also help prevent case noise from hard drive vibrations. There are also some small rubber pieces you can mount to the inside of the case.
The hard drive is retained in the case by inserting the drive and then clipping the plastic bracket back onto the case. The plastic bracket has little bumps to line up with the screw holes on the hard drives.
At the lower right, we have a hard drive tray with the hard drive inserted.
![]() (click on the image for a larger version) |
![]() (click on the image for a larger version) |
I bought a Lian Li case for my home theater PC that has a lot more room, and is all aluminum, but it was over 100% higher in price. There is an aluminum version of this case, with a different exterior, marketed under the Lian Li name, rather than under the Lancool name, which was about 50% more.
Did I like the case? YES! I'm tempted to buy another just to replace the case in my wife's new desktop — this is a much better case. That one is OK, though, so I'm resisting the temptation...
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4. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
I review my security software recommendations and update them for each weekly newsletter issue, if I think they need to change.
My Philosophy: Many people want to pick their most economical solution and prefer an all-in-one anti-virus, anti-spyware and firewall solution. In concept, that's a great idea. In actual practice, I don' think that this type of package is likely to be the best in all the protection categories you need.
Other people want to pick the best of each type program. I'm one of the these folks.
My choice of software that I am willing to recommend is driven by my search for software for me to use. I only recommend programs that I like and that I use. I will sometimes suggest alternatives to my recommendations, but I clearly note if I no longer use them.
Anti-Virus
I'm often asked about several other popular anti-virus or anti-virus combination packages. Yes, I realize that they are not in my recommendation list. "Enough said..."
From 2003 through mid-2008, my personal choice was ESET's small, fast NOD32 anti-virus program, which offers a FREE 30-day evaluation license. I still consider NOD32 to be one of the best in anti-virus protection — and it continues to get recognition and awards. Unlike some of its competitors, ESET offers multiple-year licenses also, and includes program updates in the multiple-year license.
Then, I changed from my long-time choices NOD32 (antivirus) and Sunbelt's CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks. Sunbelt Software offers multi-year licenses and home site licenses on its software, both of which include program updates as well as signature updates.
Sunbelt has recently released version 4 of VIPRE Antivirus (they dropped the "+ Antispyware" from the name, although the functions are there) and, more importantly, they released VIPRE Antivirus Premium, which integrates their new firewall software into the package. Sunbelt offers 30-day free trials of VIPRE Antivirus and VIPRE Antivirus Premium.
My anti-virus and anti-spyware choice for my computers and those of my family's computers is VIPRE Antivirus Premium
I'm often asked for alternatives to the programs that I recommend, especially by people who want to buy one package (a "suite") to do everything.
As a result, I tried a couple security suites to pick a suite that I would be willing to use, in order to have something I can recommend. ESET Smart Security 4 is my recommended suite alternative. Smart Security 4 has gotten great ratings and includes antivirus and antispyware, both from their current NOD32 v4 version, and antispam and firewall. I no longer use it and have returned to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus Premium, but for a suite choice, that's what I would use.
Tech Tip
Many antivirus programs will offer you an anti-virus signature subscription renewal when your subscription renews. I strongly recommend against this option — buy the full program or make sure you get program updates with the subscription renewal. Both NOD32 and VIPRE purchases include both program updates/upgrades AND antivirus signature updates.
Vendors routinely improve the capabilities and speed of the programs, too. If you update only the signatures, you miss any program improvements.
Related articles:
- A Look at Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus v4 and VIPRE Antivirus Premium
- VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware Review
- A Look at ESET Smart Security 4
- Anti-Virus Programs and Online Scanners
- Free Online Antivirus Scan
- NOD32 Anti-Virus Review - A Look at NOD32
Firewall Software
While the Windows XP firewall is much better than no firewall at all, but don't count on the Windows XP firewall to meet your needs.
You need a two-way firewall, which the Windows XP firewall is not!. Microsoft woke up and supplied a two-way firewall with Windows Vista. However, Microsoft built in pre-authorization for many programs. Windows 7's firewall is also two-way, and again has pre-cleared many programs to communicate outbound to the Internet — some to go where you want to go, and some to "call home."
The Windows XP firewall does not control outbound communications originating from your computer — and you should want to have control if adware/trojans/spyware or even commercial products want to talk to the Internet. Whether they are calling home or spewing spam, you want to be able to control your computer.
Do you want Windows Media Player to call home every time you play something? It does! Do you use the Search function in Windows Explorer to find things on your hard drive? Did you know that every time you search, Windows Explorer talks to Microsoft?
I didn't know that when I ran ZoneAlarm, but the Sunbelt Personal Firewall flagged that to me, and I can stop it or allow it to happen. Many other programs try to call home when you run them, too.
I'm using the firewall that's part of Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus Premium package. If you don't want to use the full package, then I recommend my previous choice for a firewall program, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall.
You can try the full-featured "paid version" of Sunbelt Personal Firewall free for 30 days — after that, you can register it or, if you're using it on a home non-business computer, you can let it revert to the free, lesser-function license.
Tip: Be sure to read my review of SPF for the settings I recommend.
At this time, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall works with Windows 2000, Windows XP and Windows Vista, in 32-bit versions only. I expect the new version of Sunbelt Personal Firewall to be available for 64-bit computers in April 2010, including Windows 7 support.
Sunbelt Personal Firewall is regularly $19.95 (with discounts for multiple computers and/or multiple years!) for a non-expiring license for the program and includes one year of their updates subscription. A unlimited Home Site License is $39.95 for a year.
Related articles:
Anti-Spyware / Anti-Adware Software
CounterSpy, from Sunbelt Software, has received many kudos from the computer press for its always-running and periodic full system scans. It has been my personal choice for my PC's and my family's PC's.
Sunbelt's CounterSpy v2.5, both improved CounterSpy's performance against malware and reduced its impact on system resources and responsiveness when its scanning.
Sunbelt continues to release updated program versions — the current version is v3.1 — and there's an even newer version about to be released. Nicely, Sunbelt do NOT install the updated programs automatically. You have to use the Update process in the program, which means that you'll know that something significant has changed.
I changed from my long-time programs NOD32 (antivirus) and CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I've found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. My computer seems to have much more pep and power than it had previously. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks.
Related articles:
Anti-spam Software
In today's Internet world, the question is not "if" you will get spam, but "how much will you get?"
I use and recommend POPFile as my first choice for handling spam. POPFile sits on your computer, between your email program and your ISP mailbox, and handles emial as it downloads.
POPFile uses a different approach to handle spam than some other programs do — it does nothing to reduce spam. It is designed as an email classification tool — you train it to recognize spam and any other type of email that you want to classify. These classifications can help you sort your emails into appropriate folders in your email program.
Sunbelt Software, who makes the anti-spyware program CounterSpy (which I use and recommend) and the firewall that I use and recommend (Sunbelt Personal Firewall) also has a well-regarded, award-winning anti-spam program called iHateSpam for Outlook and Outlook Express. Since I don't use Outlook or Outlook Express for email, I haven't tried iHateSpam.
Mailwasher Pro would be my first choice to handle spam before it ever gets into your computer's Inbox. Mailwasher Pro uses on-line Realtime Black Lists mail servers sending spam recently, "training" by you of what you think is spam, and your own "friends" and "blacklist" lists. Note: I found that PopFile generally meets my needs and stopped using Mailwasher Pro, even though PopFile works AFTER the emails have been downloaded. If I used a dialup connection, I would be more interested in Mailwasher Pro.
Mailwasher Pro can even bounce spam messages, as if your email address was not valid, although the usefulness and appropriateness of this is questionable. There is a free version called "Mailwasher," but it omits the functions that I consider critical for this purpose -- such as safely previewing the emails safely before they ever get to your email inbox.
Related articles:
System Control
I've written about WinPatrol a number of times and have used WinPatrol Plus for years. With free and paid options, I always put WinPatrol on my computers. WinPatrol monitors your computer for installation of auto-running programs, for changes to certain system settings, allows you to control auto-starting programs, to delay auto-starting programs, and many more functions.
I recommend the paid version WinPatrol Plus, which adds a few more functions and, more importantly, includes access to BillP's database of program information. However, if you don't get the paid version, be sure to get WinPatrol.
Related articles:
- WinPatrol Review | WinPatrol Plus Review
- A Look Inside WinPatrol and WinPatrol Plus
- WinPatrol - for System Control and Protection
- Controlling the Programs that Start Automatically
Backup Software
When we think of security software, we usually think of antivirus, firewall, antispyware and antispam software. But, what other kind of software is security software? Backup software, of course.
We need to make backup copies of our important data. That data may be financial, such as your checkbook in Quicken, or your spreadsheet tracking your investmants. Or, it may be personal, non-financial data such as digital family photos.
What if your hard drive won't start one day? What will you lose? What if your computer is stolen (let's ignore, for now, whether you should encrypt data on your hard drive to protect it from others — let's just think about the inconvenience and loss to us!)?
There are two basic types of backups you should do.
You need to regularly back up your individual data files to another computer, to an external hard drive, or even to an online repository (but realize, if you have to rebuild the data on your computer, it may have to be downloaded for days and days). An external hard drive is the best choice if you don't have a home network where you could copy to another computer.
If you have a home network, use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change. I have it scheduled to copy my data files every evening from my notebook to another computer at my home. You should also get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make occasional backup copies to it. Preferably store it at a relative's house or your safe deposit box.
If you don't have a home network, get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make regularly scheduled backup copies to it. Use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change to your external drive. Preferably, store one external drive at a relative's house or your safe deposit box, so that if the worst happens, you haven't lost irreplaceable photos and other information.
The other type of backup is an image backup. This gives the ultimate in quick restore capability. Just plug in the external drive, boot the cdrom, and restore the image back to your hard drive. I use Acronis True Image Home 2010 (they also have discounts for upgrades)to make backups across my network every three days. Once a month, I make a full backup image. Every three days, it makes an incremental backup — copying only those files that have changed.
Acronis True Image Home, as of version 2009, allows you to recover individual files and folders from the image files, so you don't have to restore everything. The nice thing about making my backup across the network is that I can restore individual files across the network from those images. Sometimes that's the easiest thing to do, especially when the brain takes a little nap... <grin>
Why use both Replicator and Acronis True Image Home, if we can restore individual files from both? Replicator will always have the latest version it backed up — but not any earlier ones, and it can be run daily or even hourly without taking up much more drive space (backups are replaced when changed, rather than storing additional copies). With Acronis True Image, we can have multiple versions of the files to choose among. We can restore one that's months old, if we like, not just the latest version.
Cable/DSL Router
If you have a cable modem or a DSL modem, you need to have another layer of inexpensive protection between you and the Internet. A cable/DSL router isolates your computer from direct connection to the Internet. Your computer can easily request your email, web pages, etc. through the router. The responses come back to the router and are smoothly routed to your computer. But, someone on the Internet side of the router can not initiate a connection to your computer — they can only respond to your request.
Even if you only have one computer to connect to your cable or DSL modem, I recommend that you purchase and use a cable/DSL router because of the protection it can give you against attempts to attack through some flaws in Windows itself.
A router isolates your local network, whether it is only one computer or several, from the Internet by actually making it a separate network. The router gets the "public" IP address and handles all your outbound communications and the responses to them. But, it blocks computers on the Internet side from being able to initiate communications with your computer! This will prevent you from falling prey to many worms that try to attack security holes in Windows itself.
For a wireless router, I have chosen the Cisco-Linksys E3000 High-Performance Wireless-N Router
. I've paired that with a couple Cisco-Linksys High-Performance Wireless-N USB 2.0 Adapters
. Actually, I bought two of the refurbished ones
.
If you don't want wireless, I recommend the Linksys BEFSR41 wired router, which was my old choice. Either way, based on my experience, I recommend Linksys routers for price, reliability and Linksys' habit of releasing updated firmware for their products.
See these related articles:
Volume 6, Number 02 — Sunday, June 27, 2010
Copyright © 2010 Terry A. Stockdale. All rights reserved.
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