Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
May 16, 2010
Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
http://www.terryscomputertips.com
A computer tips newsletter for users of PC's.
Volume 5, Number 49 — Sunday, May 16, 2010
IN THIS ON-LINE ISSUE:
1. Converting a Printer Into a Network Printer
2. Configuring the Buffalo USB Network Print Server
3. Adding A Printer With The Buffalo USB Network Print Server
4. Upgrading from Vista to Windows XP
5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
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Welcome to the on-line edition of my Terry's Computer Tips newsletter. Its articles are not in the email issue — and the email articles aren't in the online issue — subscribe to my email newsletter so you can read both.
1. Converting a Printer Into a Network Printer
I've written several times recently about my frustration with my HP Laserjet 1200 in a mixed Windows XP 32-bit, Windows 7 64-bit and Windows 7 32-bit network. That's all solved now!
The Laserjet 1200 worked fine, shared through one of my Windows XP 32-bit computers, when all the computers on the network were 32-bit whether they were Windows 7 or Windows XP. All of the computers could use the Laserjet 1200 for printing, as long as the Windows XP computer sharing it was turned on.
However, once I introduced 64-bit Windows 7 computers to the mix, the Windows 7 64-bit computers could not print through the 32-bit Windows XP-shared printer.
I tested with the LaserJet 1200 hooked directly to the Windows 7 64-bit computer. It was recognized and used without any problem.
After some emails with a subscriber, I tried the solution that worked for her with a different brand of printer — using the 64-bit Windows 7 computer to share the printer. Unfortunately, that didn't work for me.
When going from 32-bit to 64-bit or vice versa, Windows XP and Windows 7 could not find the printer in order to add it. Apparently, the problem was that the printer drivers could not handle the transition between 32 and 64-bit versions.
I solved that problem this week. I converted the printer into a networked printer for about $50.
I shopped a number of times for a print server that used an Ethernet connection to the network and a USB 2.0 connection to the printer. I would read the user comments and reviews on the shopping sites. After reading them, I was re-invigorated in my efforts to solve the sharing problem. Too many people were reporting problems.
I finally found one that I was willing to buy, a Buffalo Network USB 2.0 Print Server
.
How big is it? You get an idea from the image above, which has the USB and Ethernet cables hooked into it. It's about 3.6 inches long by 2 inches wide, and 1.1 inch thick. It weighs only 3.2 ounces (90.7 grams).
The lights, which overwhelmed my iPhone camera's sensors, are a bright green. The LAN and USB lights blink to show activity. The power cable goes to a small transformer block. The USB cable goes to the printer. The network cable goes to your router, switch or hub.
The unit itself is set to get an IP address via DHCP. It's not wireless, but you can print from a laptop computer connected to your wireless network. In that case, the laptop connects wirelessly to the wireless router, which then connects to the USB print server via a wired connection.
Connecting it to the network and printer was easy. Configuring it for the network wasn't too difficult, nor was configuring the 32-bit and 64-bit Windows 7 and Windows XP computers to use it. It was a little more complicated than the usual Add A Printer steps, though.
2. Configuring the Buffalo USB Network Print Server
"The first step is the hardest." How many times have we heard that old adage — and it's correct, too. I finally made that first step and purchased a Buffalo Network USB 2.0 Print Server.
The second step was tough, too. The included instructions do not match the CDROM. They say to run the Setup program on the CDROM and that it will install the configuration program and manual to your computer. That's not the case.
Once I realized that, it was easy to solve. The configuration program didn't even need to be installed!
When you run the CDROM, you can open the manual or run the Setup program directly from the CDROM. There is no option to install them to your computer. That's no problem, though. There really is not an installer program on the CDROM. All I had to do is to copy the manual and the configuration program to my computer, to the location of my choice. I created C:\Program Files\Buffalo Technologies\USB Print Server and copied configuration program (lpv3utility.exe) and the manual (Manual.pdf) into it.
The configuration program (LPV3 Manager / lpv3utility.exe) searches the network to find the print server. In this case, it found the print server called LJ1200, although that was not its original name.

By double-clicking on the print server name, you open the Properties dialog box for that print server.
In the Basic Settings tab of the Properties dialog box, you can change the print server's name to one of your choice, if you wish. You can set an administrator password, if you like. You can also set a port name (do not include a space in the name) and pick the port to use. Everything defaults to usable values, so you don't have to change anything.
The critical things that you will need to know in order to set up a Windows computer to use the Buffalo print server are the Printer Server Name and the Port Name that you set on the Basic Settings tab.

The Protocol Settings tab allows you to configure the IP address if you want to or need to for your network. Select TCP/IP and then click on the Properties button.

By default, the printer server is set to acquire an IP address automatically via DHCP, just as a computer does. If it has trouble connecting to the DHCP server, it will default to IP address 192.168.11.222.
If that happens, just pull the power plug, wait a few seconds, and then plug it in again. Fortunately, the configuration program works without the print server having an IP address that is part of the network.
The manual recommends that you note the address that is assigned and then change from Automatic to Manual Setup. This seems like a dumb thing to do, as when your router reboots (such as after a power outage), it is likely to assign a different IP address. If you're accessing the print server by IP address, you'd be out of luck.
Tech Tip
You can turn on or turn off the DHCP server in a cable/DSL router. You can also specify the range of addresses that the router will use as well as the IP address and netmask for the network.
The router does not need to assign all IP addresses in the network. If you set it so that it does not use all the IP addresses, you can set some devices to use Static IP addresses if you need to do so.

Finally, if you decide you want to start over, it's easy. Just use the Reset tab, which will let you reset the printer server to the factory options.
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3. Adding A Printer With The Buffalo USB Network Print Server
Now that we have the Buffalo network print server hooked up and configured to operate on our network, we need to set each computer to be able to print to it. After all, that was the whole point of this effort.
In Windows, we use the Add A Printer icon or menu choice to set up the Windows computer to use the printer.
That's what we'll use here, too. After we tell the Windows Computer how to connect to the Buffalo network print server, we'll specify which computer and load its driver if we need to.
The first step is the Add A Printer option.
- In Windows 7, this starts on the Start Menu with the Devices and Printers option. That opens the Devices and Printers dialog box. Near the top, there are two links "Add a device" and "Add a printer."
- In Windows XP, this begins at the Start Menu with either the Control Panel or the Printers and Faxes selections. Select Printers and Faxes. If you don't have the Printers and Faxes option displayed on the Start Menu, click Contorl Panel, then Printers and Other Hardware, then Printers and Faxes. The left side of the resulting window has common Printer Tasks — click on Add A Printer.
After selecting the Add A Printer link, we get to choose between adding a local printer (connected to this computer) or to add a network, wireless or Bluetooth printer.
Strangely, the correct choice is to add a local printer, no matter which Windows version you're running. Once you select the option to add a local printer, your next step is to create a communications port.
In the Add Printer dialog box (Add Printer Wizard in Windows XP), pick the option to Create A New Port. For the type of port, select Standard TCP/IP Port, and click Next. In Windows XP, click Next again.
Now, both Windows XP and Windows 7 will ask for the Printer Name or IP Address and the Port Name. This uses the print server name and port name configured on the print server. If you didn't make a note of them, go back in to the configuration and check to see what they are.
In my case, I set the print server name to LJ1200 and the port name to P1 (the default). Now, I need to enter the name and port number. Note that Windows will duplicate the Printer Name into the Port Name field. Don't worry about that. Just erase the Port Name field and enter the Port number / port name that we picked — P1 in my case.
The next step is similar in the Windows versions — pick Generic Network Card as the Device Type and print Next.
That will give you the standard Windows "Install the printer driver" dialog box. Pick the manufacturer and then the printer model, and click next.
If you have already installed a driver for this printer, you'll get an option to keep the existing driver or replace it. Take your pick.
Now, you get to Name The Printer. This is the name that will show up in your list of printers in the Printers and Faxes list. It's also the name that will show in the Print dialog box in your programs. Indicate if you want the printer to be your default.
Decide whether to share the printer or not. Hint: The answer should be "Do not share this printer" since it's connected to the network.
Print a test page, and you should be finished. Assuming the test page printed all right (mine did), the printer should be fully operational now.
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VIPRE Antivirus Premium— the New Release!
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4. Upgrading from Vista to Windows XP
I know that Microsoft wants us to think that Vista was an upgrade from Windows XP. Many of us did — until it was released, that is...
For a long time, computer retailers did a brisk business downgrading Vista computers to Windows XP. Finally, though, Microsoft stopped selling Windows XP CD's.
Subscriber Sherry wrote me to say:
I have vista and would love to have Windows XP. Can vista be removed and XP added without any problems?
I wrote back to Sherry to explain that, while the question was short and easy, the answer is more complicated...
It depends on how you define "without any problems" and whether you can find Windows XP drivers for all your computer hardware.
It also depends on what kind of Windows XP CDROM you have. Windows XP Upgrade CDROM's will look to find either an existing partition with a Windows operating system that is eligible to upgrade to XP (that does not include Vista), or it will ask you to put in the installation CD for an upgrade-eligible Windows operating system.
An OEM Windows XP CDROM is licensed only for the original computer on which it was installed. The only licensed method would be to use a Retail Windows XP package, since that version can be transferred from system to system and person to person.
Installing Windows XP will mean, at the least, having space to create a bootable Windows XP partition If you don't intend to keep Vista, you could delete the Vista partition.
If you do intend to keep Vista, you need to understand that, in order to run, Vista has to be installed AFTER Windows XP, not before it. Setting up the bootmanager in Windows is not a trivial step. You can search Google on how to set it up if you choose to have both XP and Vista.
Notice that you can NOT retain your data and programs on the partition to which you will install Windows XP. Vista is not backwards degradable (or backwards upgradeable as many would view it) to Windows XP.
You'll have to back up your data to an external hard drive, to CD's ro DVD's, to another computer on your home network, or even to another partition or another hard drive in your computer. Then, you can copy it back to your computer once you've installed Windows XP.
It's just sweat and time on your part for everything but the issue of hardware drivers for Windows XP.
If the hardware manufacturer for your video card, for example, does not provide a Windows XP driver, then you're out of luck unless you buy a new video card. Similarly you will need Windows XP drivers for with modems, Ethernet connections and other hardware, including peripherals like printers and scanners, and even motherboards.
When Vista was released, the Vista drivers for hardware were very different than those for Windows XP. A lot of hardware got scrapped because the manufacturer wanted to sell a new item rather than provide a new driver for Vista for free.
If your computer came with Vista pre-installed, and if the computer is from a name-brand manufacturer, then you are less-likely to be successful. The people who are more successful in shifting back to Windows XP are those with systems built by local retailers who buy name-brand parts.
Finally, if you're unsatisfied with Vista, upgrade to Windows 7. It's Vista PLUS, plus capabilities, plus speed, plus less aggravation, too.
Finally, Windows XP Home has already reached its end of support from Microsoft. Windows XP Professional reached its end of "Mainstream Support" on April 14, 2009. The Extended Support for XP Professional runs until April 8, 2014. Security patches are part of Extended Support.
Why buy into the 2-generations-old operating system?
5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
I review my security software recommendations and update them for each weekly newsletter issue, if I think they need to change.
My Philosophy: Many people want to pick their most economical solution and prefer an all-in-one anti-virus, anti-spyware and firewall solution. In concept, that's a great idea. In actual practice, I don' think that this type of package is likely to be the best in all the protection categories you need.
Other people want to pick the best of each type program. I'm one of the these folks.
My choice of software that I am willing to recommend is driven by my search for software for me to use. I only recommend programs that I like and that I use. I will sometimes suggest alternatives to my recommendations, but I clearly note if I no longer use them.
Anti-Virus
I'm often asked about several other popular anti-virus or anti-virus combination packages. Yes, I realize that they are not in my recommendation list. "Enough said..."
From 2003 through mid-2008, my personal choice was ESET's small, fast NOD32 anti-virus program, which offers a FREE 30-day evaluation license. I still consider NOD32 to be one of the best in anti-virus protection — and it continues to get recognition and awards. Unlike some of its competitors, ESET offers multiple-year licenses also, and includes program updates in the multiple-year license.
Then, I changed from my long-time choices NOD32 (antivirus) and Sunbelt's CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks. Sunbelt Software offers multi-year licenses and home site licenses on its software, both of which include program updates as well as signature updates.
Sunbelt has recently released version 4 of VIPRE Antivirus (they dropped the "+ Antispyware" from the name, although the functions are there) and, more importantly, they released VIPRE Antivirus Premium, which integrates their new firewall software into the package. Sunbelt offers 30-day free trials of VIPRE Antivirus and VIPRE Antivirus Premium.
My anti-virus and anti-spyware choice for my computers and those of my family's computers is VIPRE Antivirus Premium
I'm often asked for alternatives to the programs that I recommend, especially by people who want to buy one package (a "suite") to do everything.
As a result, I tried a couple security suites to pick a suite that I would be willing to use, in order to have something I can recommend. ESET Smart Security 4 is my recommended suite alternative. Smart Security 4 has gotten great ratings and includes antivirus and antispyware, both from their current NOD32 v4 version, and antispam and firewall. I no longer use it and have returned to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus Premium, but for a suite choice, that's what I would use.
Tech Tip
Many antivirus programs will offer you an anti-virus signature subscription renewal when your subscription renews. I strongly recommend against this option — buy the full program or make sure you get program updates with the subscription renewal. Both NOD32 and VIPRE purchases include both program updates/upgrades AND antivirus signature updates.
Vendors routinely improve the capabilities and speed of the programs, too. If you update only the signatures, you miss any program improvements.
Related articles:
- A Look at Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus v4 and VIPRE Antivirus Premium
- VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware Review
- A Look at ESET Smart Security 4
- Anti-Virus Programs and Online Scanners
- Free Online Antivirus Scan
- NOD32 Anti-Virus Review - A Look at NOD32
Firewall Software
While the Windows XP firewall is much better than no firewall at all, but don't count on the Windows XP firewall to meet your needs.
You need a two-way firewall, which the Windows XP firewall is not!. Microsoft woke up and supplied a two-way firewall with Windows Vista. However, Microsoft built in pre-authorization for many programs. Windows 7's firewall is also two-way, and again has pre-cleared many programs to communicate outbound to the Internet — some to go where you want to go, and some to "call home."
The Windows XP firewall does not control outbound communications originating from your computer — and you should want to have control if adware/trojans/spyware or even commercial products want to talk to the Internet. Whether they are calling home or spewing spam, you want to be able to control your computer.
Do you want Windows Media Player to call home every time you play something? It does! Do you use the Search function in Windows Explorer to find things on your hard drive? Did you know that every time you search, Windows Explorer talks to Microsoft?
I didn't know that when I ran ZoneAlarm, but the Sunbelt Personal Firewall flagged that to me, and I can stop it or allow it to happen. Many other programs try to call home when you run them, too.
I'm using the firewall that's part of Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus Premium package. If you don't want to use the full package, then I recommend my previous choice for a firewall program, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall.
You can try the full-featured "paid version" of Sunbelt Personal Firewall free for 30 days — after that, you can register it or, if you're using it on a home non-business computer, you can let it revert to the free, lesser-function license.
Tip: Be sure to read my review of SPF for the settings I recommend.
At this time, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall works with Windows 2000, Windows XP and Windows Vista, in 32-bit versions only. I expect the new version of Sunbelt Personal Firewall to be available for 64-bit computers in April 2010, including Windows 7 support.
Sunbelt Personal Firewall is regularly $19.95 (with discounts for multiple computers and/or multiple years!) for a non-expiring license for the program and includes one year of their updates subscription. A unlimited Home Site License is $39.95 for a year.
Related articles:
Anti-Spyware / Anti-Adware Software
CounterSpy, from Sunbelt Software, has received many kudos from the computer press for its always-running and periodic full system scans. It has been my personal choice for my PC's and my family's PC's.
Sunbelt's CounterSpy v2.5, both improved CounterSpy's performance against malware and reduced its impact on system resources and responsiveness when its scanning.
Sunbelt continues to release updated program versions — the current version is v3.1 — and there's an even newer version about to be released. Nicely, Sunbelt do NOT install the updated programs automatically. You have to use the Update process in the program, which means that you'll know that something significant has changed.
I changed from my long-time programs NOD32 (antivirus) and CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I've found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. My computer seems to have much more pep and power than it had previously. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks.
Related articles:
Anti-spam Software
In today's Internet world, the question is not "if" you will get spam, but "how much will you get?"
I use and recommend POPFile as my first choice for handling spam. POPFile sits on your computer, between your email program and your ISP mailbox, and handles emial as it downloads.
POPFile uses a different approach to handle spam than some other programs do — it does nothing to reduce spam. It is designed as an email classification tool — you train it to recognize spam and any other type of email that you want to classify. These classifications can help you sort your emails into appropriate folders in your email program.
Sunbelt Software, who makes the anti-spyware program CounterSpy (which I use and recommend) and the firewall that I use and recommend (Sunbelt Personal Firewall) also has a well-regarded, award-winning anti-spam program called iHateSpam for Outlook and Outlook Express. Since I don't use Outlook or Outlook Express for email, I haven't tried iHateSpam.
Mailwasher Pro would be my first choice to handle spam before it ever gets into your computer's Inbox. Mailwasher Pro uses on-line Realtime Black Lists mail servers sending spam recently, "training" by you of what you think is spam, and your own "friends" and "blacklist" lists. Note: I found that PopFile generally meets my needs and stopped using Mailwasher Pro, even though PopFile works AFTER the emails have been downloaded. If I used a dialup connection, I would be more interested in Mailwasher Pro.
Mailwasher Pro can even bounce spam messages, as if your email address was not valid, although the usefulness and appropriateness of this is questionable. There is a free version called "Mailwasher," but it omits the functions that I consider critical for this purpose -- such as safely previewing the emails safely before they ever get to your email inbox.
Related articles:
System Control
I've written about WinPatrol a number of times and have used WinPatrol Plus for years. With free and paid options, I always put WinPatrol on my computers. WinPatrol monitors your computer for installation of auto-running programs, for changes to certain system settings, allows you to control auto-starting programs, to delay auto-starting programs, and many more functions.
I recommend the paid version WinPatrol Plus, which adds a few more functions and, more importantly, includes access to BillP's database of program information. However, if you don't get the paid version, be sure to get WinPatrol.
Related articles:
- WinPatrol Review | WinPatrol Plus Review
- A Look Inside WinPatrol and WinPatrol Plus
- WinPatrol - for System Control and Protection
- Controlling the Programs that Start Automatically
Backup Software
When we think of security software, we usually think of antivirus, firewall, antispyware and antispam software. But, what other kind of software is security software? Backup software, of course.
We need to make backup copies of our important data. That data may be financial, such as your checkbook in Quicken, or your spreadsheet tracking your investmants. Or, it may be personal, non-financial data such as digital family photos.
What if your hard drive won't start one day? What will you lose? What if your computer is stolen (let's ignore, for now, whether you should encrypt data on your hard drive to protect it from others — let's just think about the inconvenience and loss to us!)?
There are two basic types of backups you should do.
You need to regularly back up your individual data files to another computer, to an external hard drive, or even to an online repository (but realize, if you have to rebuild the data on your computer, it may have to be downloaded for days and days). An external hard drive is the best choice if you don't have a home network where you could copy to another computer.
If you have a home network, use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change. I have it scheduled to copy my data files every evening from my notebook to another computer at my home. You should also get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make occasional backup copies to it. Preferably store it at a relative's house or your safe deposit box.
If you don't have a home network, get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make regularly scheduled backup copies to it. Use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change to your external drive. Preferably, store one external drive at a relative's house or your safe deposit box, so that if the worst happens, you haven't lost irreplaceable photos and other information.
The other type of backup is an image backup. This gives the ultimate in quick restore capability. Just plug in the external drive, boot the cdrom, and restore the image back to your hard drive. I use Acronis True Image Home 2010 (they also have discounts for upgrades)to make backups across my network every three days. Once a month, I make a full backup image. Every three days, it makes an incremental backup — copying only those files that have changed.
Acronis True Image Home, as of version 2009, allows you to recover individual files and folders from the image files, so you don't have to restore everything. The nice thing about making my backup across the network is that I can restore individual files across the network from those images. Sometimes that's the easiest thing to do, especially when the brain takes a little nap... <grin>
Why use both Replicator and Acronis True Image Home, if we can restore individual files from both? Replicator will always have the latest version it backed up — but not any earlier ones, and it can be run daily or even hourly without taking up much more drive space (backups are replaced when changed, rather than storing additional copies). With Acronis True Image, we can have multiple versions of the files to choose among. We can restore one that's months old, if we like, not just the latest version.
Cable/DSL Router
If you have a cable modem or a DSL modem, you need to have another layer of inexpensive protection between you and the Internet. A cable/DSL router isolates your computer from direct connection to the Internet. Your computer can easily request your email, web pages, etc. through the router. The responses come back to the router and are smoothly routed to your computer. But, someone on the Internet side of the router can not initiate a connection to your computer — they can only respond to your request.
Even if you only have one computer to connect to your cable or DSL modem, I recommend that you purchase and use a cable/DSL router because of the protection it can give you against attempts to attack through some flaws in Windows itself.
A router isolates your local network, whether it is only one computer or several, from the Internet by actually making it a separate network. The router gets the "public" IP address and handles all your outbound communications and the responses to them. But, it blocks computers on the Internet side from being able to initiate communications with your computer! This will prevent you from falling prey to many worms that try to attack security holes in Windows itself.
For a wireless router, I have chosen the Cisco-Linksys E3000 High-Performance Wireless-N Router
. I've paired that with a couple Cisco-Linksys High-Performance Wireless-N USB 2.0 Adapters
. Actually, I bought two of the refurbished ones
.
If you don't want wireless, I recommend the Linksys BEFSR41 wired router, which I also use. Either way, based on my experience, I recommend Linksys routers for price, reliability and Linksys' habit of releasing updated firmware for their products..
See these related articles:
Volume 5, Number 49 — Sunday, May 16, 2010
Copyright © 2010 Terry A. Stockdale. All rights reserved.
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