Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
April 11, 2010
Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
http://www.terryscomputertips.com
A computer tips newsletter for users of PC's.
Volume 5, Number 44 — Sunday, April 11, 2010
IN THIS ON-LINE ISSUE:
1. Building a New Desktop Computer
2. The Lighter Side of Technology
3. Finding and Solving the New Computer's Problem
4. Spec'ing Out the New Desktop Computer
5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
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Welcome to the on-line edition of my Terry's Computer Tips newsletter. Its articles are not in the email issue — and the email articles aren't in the online issue — subscribe to my email newsletter so you can read both.
1. Building a New Desktop Computer
I've been looking for a new notebook for myself for quite a while, but I still haven't pulled the trigger and bought one. My notebook is my main computer and it is pushing six years old — I got it in June, 2004!
That didn't stop me this week, though. It was time to replace my wife's desktop computer, which was even older. It had an Abit AN-7 motherboard with an AMD Athlon™ XP 2800+ CPU and 1.25 GB of RAM. AMD had a strange naming game back in 2004. The Athlon XP 2800+ was not a 2.8 GHz processor — it was 2.08 GHz. I think the concept was that it would "feel like" it was equivalent to an Intel 2.8 GHz processor. Regardless, it was a great computer and was just getting old.
I built her a new computer with exactly the parts that I wanted, including real Windows 7 Professional operating system DVD's (the retail package). Why did I get the Professional? I have it on my notebook, my home theater PC and will be putting it on my desktop when I build my replacement.
When I built the XP computers, I had Professional on all except my wife's, which had XP Home. Boy, did I regret that. Every time I turned around, something in the networking just didn't work right between her computer and the rest of them. Never again...
The new computer has a Gigabyte motherboard, Intel Core i5-750 CPU, 8 GB of RAM, DVD-burner, 1 TB Seagate hard drive and an ATI 4670-based video card. Now that it's all up and running, we love it.
Newegg did a great job shipping parts. After ordering on Friday evening, everything was delivered late Monday afternoon. I started the assembly on Wednesday night, completing it (for the first time) on Thursday night. Time for the great power-on.
It didn't. Well, this little row of 6 lights on the motherboard powered on, the CPU fan, the case fan and the power supply fan all powered on — for about half of a second.
Frustration set in and I decided to work on it on Friday afternoon.
Late Friday afternoon, I started working on the computer, disconnecting everything but the memory and video card. Still, the computer did the same thing. I tried variation after variation. I finally took the motherboard out of the computer in case there was a screw underneath the motherboard that was shorting the board. Not so.
I even tried to power it on with nothing on the motherboard except the CPU, the CPU fan, and one stick of memory. Again no luck.
Continued in article 3, below...
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2. The Lighter Side of Technology
This week's Terry's Computer Tips technology cartoon from www.ineedacartoon.com .

3. Finding and Solving the New Computer's Problem
Saturday morning was the time for the next level of testing...
This time, I started by taking 4 GB (2 sticks) of DDR3 RAM from my home theater PC. This was the same brand and type of memory that I bought for the new desktop, and which Gigabyte had said was compatible with both motherboards.
Why did I do this? It was time to start swapping out the last few items to see if I could figure out which piece of hardware was bad — the memory, the CPU, the CPU cooler or the motherboard.
I pulled all 8 GB of memory from the new motherboard and put in the 4 GB from the other computer, which I knew worked. No luck. The symptoms were exactly the same.
Then, I tried with only one memory stick, then the other memory stick. Again, no change.
Based on the debugging tree in the motherboard manual, it was time to try swapping the CPU heatsink and fan in case the CPU fan wasn't running properly. No such luck. The working CPU cooler from the home theater PC made absolutely no difference in the new desktop PC's non-performance.
OK, now it's time to take out the new Core i5 CPU and swap it with the Core i7 CPU from the home theater PC.
It didn't work. The Core i7 CPU, inserted into the new desktop computer and with the CPU heatsink and fan with which it had been working, did not work in the new desktop! I thought "That's it!" at least, until I tried the Core i5 in the home theater PC and it didn't work either.
I moved the Core i7 CPU back to the home theater PC and, this time, it didn't work, either. I knew something was wrong.
The WRONG was one of the power connections. The Gigabyte GA-P55A-U3P motherboard in the desktop, like the GA-P55-U4P motherboard in the home theater pc, has a power connector socket for 8 pins in a 4x2 configuration. The manual said that this was recommended if you used a 130 watt CPU. The i5 is only a 95-watt CPU, so I wasn't worried that I didn't have the connector.
When I looked at the cables from the power supply, I found a 4x2 connector, actually a 3x2 plus an attached 1x2, so it could connect to either a 3x2 or a 4x2 socket. The connector was labelled PCI-E, which didn't match the implication that the socket was for CPU power. I didn't find any other 4x2 connector on the power supply. Since the manual said I didn't need the 4x2 connector, and the PCI-E one didn't fit the motherboard 4x2 socket, I plugged in the main power connector and that was all I used.
When I connected the Core i7 back into the desktop and it didn't work, I had not connected the 4x2 connector. After I fought the problem for 2 days, I finally found I actually had a 4x2 connector for the CPU power. I had overlooked it before, when I found the other connector first.
When I connected the 4x2 connector, all of a sudden, the Core i7 in the desktop powered up perfectly. I connected the 4x2 in the HTPC and found the Core i5 powered up perfectly, also.
I swapped the CPUs, CPU coolers (heatsinks and fans), tested again and found everything worked fine, so I reinstalled the rest of the desktop's hardware and returned the HTPC to its place in the den.
I connected the new desktop to my KVM (Keyboard, Video, Monitor switch) so I could install Windows. Since my KVM is based on PS/2, I had to use a PS/2 to USB adapter cable to connect to the desktop. I connected the KVM's keyboard cable directly to the one PS/2 connector (half-colored purple for keyboard and half green for mouse). Then, I installed Windows 7 Professional.
By late Saturday night, I had copied all of my wife's data to her new computer and had installed and configured most of her programs.
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Sunbelt Personal Firewall for Windows 2000, XP and Vista |
4. Spec'ing Out the New Desktop Computer
So, what did I install in my wife's new desktop computer?
I needed to consider what she was going to do with her computer, which includes some email, web surfing, some photo editing, some graphics, mainly simple things. I could have built her a lot less powerful computer — but the incremental cost was in the range of a couple hundred dollars. Since I hope that she'll keep this one 4 years, or even 6 years like her last one, I wanted to make sure it had enough power to last that long.
I started by looking at the Intel Core i7 and Core i5 CPU's. I finally decided that, since her computer sits in a computer desk (open at front and back, but with about 1 inch gap on each side), I would get the Core i5, which should run cooler. It does.
I settled on the Intel Core i5-750, which is a 95-watt processor, compared to the 130-watt Core i7 processors I was considering.
![]() | Intel Core i5-750 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor |
For the motherboard, I picked a Gigabyte model GA-P55A-U3P that was very similar to the GA-P55-U4P model that I used for my home theater PC. The biggest changes were: the addition of 2 SATA3 connectors, the addition of USB3, loss of one PCIEx1 card socket and a heatsink relocated. This allows me to install a maximum of 8 GB RAM, which I chose to do.
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GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3P ATX Intel Motherboard |
The CPU cooler that I picked was the same as I picked for the home theater PC, a Thermaltake Silent 1156.
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Thermaltake Silent 1156 CLP0552 92mm CPU Cooler For Intel Socket LGA1156 |
For the power supply, I chose the Antec EarthWatts EA750 750W power supply. That would give me way more power capacity than I should need, so it should stablize the power more effectively. Still, if I needed more power, it would be there waiting.
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Antec EA750 750W Continuous Power "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Power Supply |
I went with a little more expensive video card for the desktop than I did for the home theater PC, the POWERCOLOR Radeon HD 4670 AX4670 . While there will be some game-playing on this desktop, it will be arcade-style games and word games, rather than the first-person shooters and role-playing games that tend to demand high-end video cards.
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POWERCOLOR Radeon HD 4670 PCS AX4670 1GBK3-PH Video Card |
My memory choice was the same as for my home theater PC, the I went with a little more expensive video card for the desktop than I did for the home theater PC, the G.SKILL Trident 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM. This was one of the models that Gigabyte specifically listed, on its web site, as compatible with the motherboard. Plus, it looks great!
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G.SKILL Trident 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Desktop Memory |
I chose the COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 case in black & silver. This inexpensive case is lightweight, has a window on the side, and is designed for tool-less . This was one of the models that Gigabyte specifically listed, on its web site, as compatible with the motherboard. Plus, it looks great!
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COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-WW Black/Silver Computer Case |
I chose Microsoft Windows 7 Professional - Retail version for my operating system. Although this was much more expensive than the System Builder OEM package (almost double the price) it had several advantages. First, it came with both the 32-bit and 64-bit versions. I can install one, if I don't like it, I can install the other.
Second, the retail version allows you to use it on one computer, but does not prohibit you from replacing the motherboard and processor as upgrades (Microsoft's stance is that System Builder versions are licensed for one specific computer — and they define that to include one specific motherboard and CPU, or the exact replacements of them for repair purposes).
Finally, the System Builder license is actually licensed only for system builders who sell the resulting computer to an unrelated third party. Using it for your own PC or a family PC appears to be prohibited by the System Builder license.
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Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Full |
The Samsung SH-S223L was my choice for a DVD burner. It has worked well both for reading CD's and DVD's as well as for burning DVD's. It is an OEM model and does not include cable, screws (don't need them on the Centurion 5 toolless case), or software. I bought Ashampoo Burning Studio 9 for the computer after downloading and trying the trial version.
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SAMSUNG DVD Burner Black SATA Model SH-S223L LightScribe Support |
Finally, the hard drive — I chose the Hitachi Deskstar 1 TB Retail package. Although I don't think she'll use anywhere near that amount of space, some of it can be used for backing up other data files.
After installing Windows, my first step was to install VIPRE Antivirus Premium and to load its updated definitions. This provided my antivirus, antispyware and firewall programs. At that point, I installed the drivers and utilities from the CDROM that came with my Gigabyte motherboard. Then, I did my Windows Updates. Finally, I installed the video drivers from the ATI CDROM that came with the video card.
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VIPRE Antivirus Premium— the New Release!
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5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
I review my security software recommendations and update them for each weekly newsletter issue, if I think they need to change.
My Philosophy: Many people want to pick their most economical solution and prefer an all-in-one anti-virus, anti-spyware and firewall solution. In concept, that's a great idea. In actual practice, I don' think that this type of package is likely to be the best in all the protection categories you need.
Other people want to pick the best of each type program. I'm one of the these folks.
My choice of software that I am willing to recommend is driven by my search for software for me to use. I only recommend programs that I like and that I use. I will sometimes suggest alternatives to my recommendations, but I clearly note if I no longer use them.
Anti-Virus
I'm often asked about several other popular anti-virus or anti-virus combination packages. Yes, I realize that they are not in my recommendation list. "Enough said..."
From 2003 through mid-2008, my personal choice was ESET's small, fast NOD32 anti-virus program, which offers a FREE 30-day evaluation license. I still consider NOD32 to be one of the best in anti-virus protection — and it continues to get recognition and awards. Unlike some of its competitors, ESET offers multiple-year licenses also, and includes program updates in the multiple-year license.
Then, I changed from my long-time choices NOD32 (antivirus) and Sunbelt's CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks. Sunbelt Software offers multi-year licenses and home site licenses on its software, both of which include program updates as well as signature updates. Sunbelt has recently released version 4 of VIPRE Antivirus (they dropped the "+ Antispyware" from the name, although the functions are there) and, more importantly, they released VIPRE Antivirus Premium, which integrates their new firewall software into the package. Sunbelt offers 30-day free trials of VIPRE Antivirus and VIPRE Antivirus Premium.
My anti-virus and anti-spyware choice for my computers and those of my family's computers is VIPRE Antivirus Premium
I'm often asked for alternatives to the programs that I recommend, especially by people who want to buy one package (a "suite") to do everything.
As a result, I tried a couple security suites in the last few months to pick a suite to recommend. ESET Smart Security 4 is my recommended suite alternative. Smart Security 4 has gotten great ratings and includes antivirus and antispyware, both from their current NOD32 v4 version, and antispam and firewall. I no longer use it and have returned to Sunbelt's VIPRE, but for a suite choice, that's what I would use.
Tech Tip
Many antivirus programs will offer you an anti-virus signature subscription renewal when your subscription renews. I strongly recommend against this option — buy the full program or make sure you get program updates with the subscription renewal. Both NOD32 and VIPRE purchases include both program updates/upgrades AND antivirus signature updates.
Vendors routinely improve the capabilities and speed of the programs, too. If you update only the signatures, you miss any program improvements.
Related articles:
- A Look at Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus v4 and VIPRE Antivirus Premium
- VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware Review
- A Look at ESET Smart Security 4
- Anti-Virus Programs and Online Scanners
- Free Online Antivirus Scan
- NOD32 Anti-Virus Review - A Look at NOD32
Firewall Software
While the Windows XP firewall is much better than no firewall at all, but don't count on the Windows XP firewall to meet your needs.
You need a two-way firewall, which the Windows XP firewall is not!. Microsoft woke up and supplied a two-way firewall with Windows Vista. However, Microsoft built in pre-authorization for many programs. Windows 7's firewall is also two-way, and again has pre-cleared many programs to communicate outbound to the Internet — some to go where you want to go, and some to "call home."
The Windows XP firewall does not control outbound communications originating from your computer — and you should want to have control if adware/trojans/spyware or even commercial products want to talk to the Internet. Whether they are calling home or spewing spam, you want to be able to control your computer.
Do you want Windows Media Player to call home every time you play something? It does! Do you use the Search function in Windows Explorer to find things on your hard drive? Did you know that every time you search, Windows Explorer talks to Microsoft?
I didn't know that when I ran ZoneAlarm, but the Sunbelt Personal Firewall flagged that to me, and I can stop it or allow it to happen. Many other programs try to call home when you run them, too.
I'm using the firewall that's part of Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus Premium package. If you don't want to use the full package, then I recommend my previous choice for a firewall program, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall.
You can try the full-featured "paid version" of Sunbelt Personal Firewall free for 30 days — after that, you can register it or, if you're using it on a home non-business computer, you can let it revert to the free, lesser-function license.
Tip: Be sure to read my review of SPF for the settings I recommend.
At this time, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall works with Windows 2000, Windows XP and Windows Vista, in 32-bit versions only. I expect the new version of Sunbelt Personal Firewall to be available for 64-bit computers in April 2010, including Windows 7 support.
Sunbelt Personal Firewall is regularly $19.95 (with discounts for multiple computers and/or multiple years!) for a non-expiring license for the program and includes one year of their updates subscription. A unlimited Home Site License is $39.95 for a year.
Related articles:
Anti-Spyware / Anti-Adware Software
CounterSpy, from Sunbelt Software, has received many kudos from the computer press for its always-running and periodic full system scans. It has been my personal choice for my PC's and my family's PC's.
Sunbelt's CounterSpy v2.5, both improved CounterSpy's performance against malware and reduced its impact on system resources and responsiveness when its scanning.
Sunbelt continues to release updated program versions — the current version is v3.1 — and there's an even newer version about to be released. Nicely, Sunbelt do NOT install the updated programs automatically. You have to use the Update process in the program, which means that you'll know that something significant has changed.
I changed from my long-time programs NOD32 (antivirus) and CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I've found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. My computer seems to have much more pep and power than it had previously. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks.
Related articles:
Anti-spam Software
In today's Internet world, the question is not "if" you will get spam, but "how much will you get?"
I use and recommend POPFile as my first choice for handling spam. POPFile sits on your computer, between your email program and your ISP mailbox, and handles emial as it downloads.
POPFile uses a different approach to handle spam than some other programs do — it does nothing to reduce spam. It is designed as an email classification tool — you train it to recognize spam and any other type of email that you want to classify. These classifications can help you sort your emails into appropriate folders in your email program.
Sunbelt Software, who makes the anti-spyware program CounterSpy (which I use and recommend) and the firewall that I use and recommend (Sunbelt Personal Firewall) also has a well-regarded, award-winning anti-spam program called iHateSpam for Outlook and Outlook Express. Since I don't use Outlook or Outlook Express for email, I haven't tried iHateSpam.
Mailwasher Pro would be my first choice to handle spam before it ever gets into your computer's Inbox. Mailwasher Pro uses on-line Realtime Black Lists mail servers sending spam recently, "training" by you of what you think is spam, and your own "friends" and "blacklist" lists. Note: I found that PopFile generally meets my needs and stopped using Mailwasher Pro, even though PopFile works AFTER the emails have been downloaded. If I used a dialup connection, I would be more interested in Mailwasher Pro.
Mailwasher Pro can even bounce spam messages, as if your email address was not valid, although the usefulness and appropriateness of this is questionable. There is a free version called "Mailwasher," but it omits the functions that I consider critical for this purpose -- such as safely previewing the emails safely before they ever get to your email inbox.
Related articles:
Backup Software
When we think of security software, we usually think of antivirus, firewall, antispyware and antispam software. But, what other kind of software is security software? Backup software, of course.
We need to make backup copies of our important data. That data may be financial, such as your checkbook in Quicken, or your spreadsheet tracking your investmants. Or, it may be personal, non-financial data such as digital family photos.
What if your hard drive won't start one day? What will you lose? What if your computer is stolen (let's ignore, for now, whether you should encrypt data on your hard drive to protect it from others — let's just think about the inconvenience and loss to us!)?
There are two basic types of backups you should do.
You need to regularly back up your individual data files to another computer, to an external hard drive, or even to an online repository (but realize, if you have to rebuild the data on your computer, it may have to be downloaded for days and days). An external hard drive is the best choice if you don't have a home network where you could copy to another computer.
If you have a home network, use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change. I have it scheduled to copy my data files every evening from my notebook to another computer at my home. You should also get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make occasional backup copies to it. Preferably store it at a relative's house or your safe deposit box.
If you don't have a home network, get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make regularly scheduled backup copies to it. Use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change to your external drive. Preferably, store one external drive at a relative's house or your safe deposit box, so that if the worst happens, you haven't lost irreplaceable photos and other information.
The other type of backup is an image backup. This gives the ultimate in quick restore capability. Just plug in the external drive, boot the cdrom, and restore the image back to your hard drive. I use Acronis True Image Home 2010 (they also have discounts for upgrades)to make backups across my network every three days. Once a month, I make a full backup image. Every three days, it makes an incremental backup — copying only those files that have changed.
Acronis True Image Home, as of version 2009, allows you to recover individual files and folders from the image files, so you don't have to restore everything. The nice thing about making my backup across the network is that I can restore individual files across the network from those images. Sometimes that's the easiest thing to do, especially when the brain takes a little nap... <grin>
Why use both Replicator and Acronis True Image Home, if we can restore individual files from both? Replicator will always have the latest version it backed up — but not any earlier ones, and it can be run daily or even hourly without taking up much more drive space (backups are replaced when changed, rather than storing additional copies). With Acronis True Image, we can have multiple versions of the files to choose among. We can restore one that's months old, if we like, not just the latest version.
Cable/DSL Router
If you have a cable modem or a DSL modem, you need to have another layer of inexpensive protection between you and the Internet. A cable/DSL router isolates your computer from direct connection to the Internet. Your computer can easily request your email, web pages, etc. through the router. The responses come back to the router and are smoothly routed to your computer. But, someone on the Internet side of the router can not initiate a connection to your computer — they can only respond to your request.
Even if you only have one computer to connect to your cable or DSL modem, I recommend that you purchase and use a cable/DSL router because of the protection it can give you against attempts to attack through some flaws in Windows itself.
A router isolates your local network, whether it is only one computer or several, from the Internet by actually making it a separate network. The router gets the "public" IP address and handles all your outbound communications and the responses to them. But, it blocks computers on the Internet side from being able to initiate communications with your computer! This will prevent you from falling prey to many worms that try to attack security holes in Windows itself.
For a wireless router, I still recommend the Linksys WRT54G wireless router. Now that the "n" specifications have become final, I'm watching for the routers to be labelled as meeting the final specifications. Too much equipment still is labelled as meeting "Draft n" specifications, including the wireless card options in the new Dell Precision M6500 mobile workstation (notebook) that was released on December 1st! The interoperability issue still concerns me. I want the wireless equipment to work together without compatibility problems between manufacturers.
If you don't want wireless, I recommend the Linksys BEFSR41 wired router, which I also use. Either way, based on my experience, I recommend Linksys routers for price, reliability and Linksys' habit of releasing updated firmware for their products..
Tech Tip
By the way, the new "802.11n" wireless specification was approved in September 2009. It had been expected to be approved in January 2010.
If you're shopping, look for some indication that the model meets the final, approved standard. The "n" routers sold in the last couple years were based on different drafts of the standard.
I'm planning to switch from 802.11g to 802.11n, but not until January or February. I want the router manufacturers to have a chance to get their firmware upgrades done for 802.11n compliance, or to release new models in case they need to.
See these related articles:
Volume 5, Number 44 — Sunday, April 11, 2010
Copyright © 2010 Terry A. Stockdale. All rights reserved.
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