Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
February 7, 2010
Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
http://www.terryscomputertips.com
A computer tips newsletter for users of PC's.
Volume 5, Number 35 — Sunday, February 7, 2010
IN THIS ON-LINE ISSUE:
1. Securing Your Home Wireless Network
2. The Lighter Side of Technology
3. Feedback about Leaving Emails on the Mailserver
4. RAID Hard Drive Systems Issues
5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
My emailed newsletter is sent weekly to individuals who have subscribed to it. While mainly an announcement of the latest online nenwsletter, it also has different, additional content — not the articles in the online issue. Click here to subscribe. It's free!
Welcome to the on-line edition of my Terry's Computer Tips newsletter. Its articles are not in the email issue — and the email articles aren't in the online issue — subscribe to my email newsletter so you can read both.
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1. Securing Your Home Wireless Network
In order to secure a home wireless network, we have a number of simple steps to take.
The first, and very important, step is that we need to configure the security while we have a wired connection between our computer and the router. Why? Because the changes we make will lock out the wireless computer and could require resetting the router to the factory settings in order to reconnect.
So, get your Ethernet cable, hook it to the wireless router and to your computer. If you're still running Windows XP, you may have to reboot to get an IP address assigned to the computer by the (wireless) router. I'll use the Linksys WRT54G as my example wireless router. This router does 802.11b and 802.11g. Since the 802.11n specification was not approved until September 2009, the "n" routers that have been on the market for a while have been built to the draft specifications.
Tech Tip
I'm starting to look at the new n routers. However, I'm still surprised at how many routers and wireless cards, including those in notebooks, use words like "compatible with the 802.11n standards" instead of "meets the 802.11n standards." Some plainly state that they are compatible with the draft "n" standards.
Looking at the first image, we see that we can restrict the router to specific protocols (and their speeds) if we choose. Mixing b and g on the same network can cause the whole network to slow down. We can also pick the wireless channel, from 1 to 11 — this is to avoid interference with neighboring wireless networks.
The next item, the SSID, is the first security-related choice. Think of this as a name for the wireless router. Its main use is so that you can make sure that you are connecting to your own router, and not your neighbor's. This becomes important if you share files and printers.
The choice of SSID name is not critical — just use some word or words that are neutral and DO NOT IDENTIFY YOU. Why point out to the neighbors and their kids that your network is yours?
The other thing to change, which is normally set to Enable, is the Wireless SSID Broadcast setting. If you know your router's SSID, you can connect to it. If you let the router broadcast the SSID, everyone can easily find your network.

Now, we need to pick the security mode, that is, the class of encryption technology that we want to use. Both the router and the wireless device need to support the choice.
Security modes available on the WRT64G are Disabled, WPA Personal, WPA Enterprise, WPA2 Personal (the best so far for home users), WPA2 Enterprise, RADIUS and WEP. WEP is the original wireless for home users and was inappropriately named "Wired Equivalent Privacy" — it wasn't.
Next we pick the actual encryption algorithm (the program logic) to encrypt the data while its being transmitted wirelessly. The choices vary with each security mode. For WPA2 Personal, the encryption algorithms available are AES and AES+TKIP. Pick AES+TKIP.
Finally, we get to enter the wireless network password (the key). Your router will tell you what the available choices are, but they will include at least numbers, lower case letters and upper case letters. They probably include punctuation marks. However, spaces are probably not allowed in the password.

The Wireless MAC Filter allows us to define whether specific wireless devices are allowed to connect to the router wirelessly. This uses the Media Access Control (MAC) address, which is a unique set of numbers assigned to each individual internet capable device (that is, the network card has an IP address; the whole computer does not have one).
First, we have to turn on the Wireless MAC Filter. This is normally turned off so that the wireless network will work immediately (in order to prevent unneeded product returns).
Then, we get to choose whether to use the MAC Filter List to prevent access or to allow access. I haven't figured out the circumstances in which "prevent" makes sense. Well, if you have two wireless routers, you could use this to prevent a device from connecting to the wrong router. The problem is that you'd have to identify all the devices that you did not want to connect.
The more logical choice is to use the list to permit access to the wireless network.

Finally, we see an example of the MAC Address Filter List.
Tech Tip
MAC addresses are made up of six pairs alphanumeric values. Each number pair constitutes an actual hexadecimal (base 16) number, and ranges from 0 to 9, then A to F. The number pairs range from 00 (zero) through FF (255).
Different routers may allow you to enter the MAC addresses in different format, with the number pairs separated by colons (the Linksys way), commas, spaces, or not separated. The important thing is that all six number pairs are entered correctly — otherwise, that device will be blocked from the network.

That's about it from a home-user point of view. Businesses have different classes of equipment with much higher prices, much more configurable options, and IT departments to manage their networks, including preventing intrusions.
These steps will help you protect your computer and network from access by unauthorized people. They won't prevent it completely, just as a locked car door won't prevent the car from being stolen.
Wireless connections simply are not as secure as wired ones. They're just hugely more convenient, and, with 802.11n and draft-n equipment, much faster than the 10/100Mbit wired networks that most of us use.
2. The Lighter Side of Technology
This week's Terry's Computer Tips technology cartoon from www.ineedacartoon.com .

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3. Feedback about Leaving Emails on the Mailserver
Longtime subscriber Janusz Lukasiak wrote about one of my articles in the January 31, 2009 TCT newsletter:
Hi Terry,
your article in the 31 January newsletter is, technically speaking correct, but it seems to reinvent the wheel (producing a square wheel in the end....).
Have you ever heard of IMAP? If you use it instead of POP, you can download messages to multiple PC's leaving them on the server, selectively delete messages from the server and do all sorts of clever tricks. Why is this overlooked in the article?
Kind regards
Janusz Lukasiak
I wrote back to Janusz to tell him that he was right, but not for many of my readers.
Most consumer-level ISP's in the US do not offer IMAP, which automatically keeps emails on the mailserver until you delete the emails. They have small mailspace allowances, such as 10MB or 25MB, although one prominent ISP offers only 1MB on their cheapest account — so filling up the available space is more of a problem.
IMAP is a whole different set of rules and opportunities.
That's less than one floppy-worth of data. Kind of shocking :-(
Get a free email account, with more space and better facilities, from elsewhere, not from your ISP.Discuss :-))
Kind regards
Janusz Lukasiak
Janusz has a great idea for those readers who have small email mailboxes. You can get much larger email accounts for receiving your emails. Unfortunately, due to necessary anti-spam controls, most of those accounts will let you send emails by webmail functions (using your web browser) but will not allow you to send email through them using Outlook, Outlook Express, Eudora, Thunderbird and other programs sending email via SMTP.
4. RAID Hard Drive Systems Issues
Subscriber Terry HOTSON wrote with questions about setting up a RAID system:
Hi Terry
Approx. 3 weeks ago i changed from XP Pro to Windows 7 (new SATA hard drive). I have now installed a 2nd SATA hard drive(new).My question is,
how do i make it RAID ? Can you assist me, thankyou Terry.
There are several reasons why I could not tell Terry exactly how to set up a RAID system (a Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks), but I could tell him omething about the issues:
1) I haven't used RAID — at one point I thought about it as a "neat thing to do." Then, I realized that I had no need for it — I needed drives for storage and I could use tape (old days) and image backups (today) to back up my systems. However, there's a very important thing to remember about RAID — all except Raid 0 provide some protection against data loss because of hard drive failure. None provide protection against "brain failure" or malware attack. They really are not what I would consider a backup system.
2) Your motherboard must support RAID for the drives you want to set up as a RAID system, if you want to hook the RAID drives directly to the motherboard, or
3) If not #2, then you'll need a SATA II or SATA III add-on interface card for your computer that provides RAID capabilities
4) All your RAID drives must be the same size
5) You must decide which flavor of RAID you want - RAID 0 or Raid 1 or RAID 0,1 etc - and there are even more complicated ones
6) What is your goal -- speed or security? That will drive how many physical drives you use and which flavor of raid you use.
7) Each RAID controller has its own drivers and own instructions on how to go about setting up a RAID system using it.
Examples:
RAID 0 — striping — two drives are required. Fast. Data is written in stripes alternately between first drive and second drive, including files being split between the two. Dangerous for important data, as a loss of either drive loses everything.
RAID 1 — mirroring — one drive is the master, and every write transaction is mirrored on the other hard drive. Prevents loss caused by hard drive failure. Does nothing to prevent loss by brain failure — "oh, no!" applies to both drives. It's not a backup system, it's a realtime duplicate.
RAID 3, 4, 5 and 6 all deal with ways of using multiple drives to handle striping and parity, in order to be able to recover from a hard drive failure. Still no protection from brain failure.
RAID 0+1 — striped then mirrored — four drives. Fast and realtime redundancy. First 2 are striping data and second 2 are mirroring what happens on the first two. Still no protection from brain failure.
And, there are more...
Terry wrote back to say:
thankyou for answering the email, i solved the problem, and i think Windows 7 is excellant to arrange RAID do not need to download drivers or go into the BIOS i could do it with the OS. I chose RAID 1 (2 sata hd's ) not fast but for a little protection. By the way i have SATA II Drives. Once again thankyou very much you have a interesting site.
Terry "backed into" a solution, but it may not be a solution he was expecting.
There are two basic ways to control RAID systems — generally, they're referred to as hardware RAID and software RAID. Hardware RAID allows the operating system to be unaware of the fact that RAID is occurring. In doing so, all the control of the RAID activity is controlled by the RAID controller board. Software RAID, on the other hand, puts the load on the operating system (Windows 7, in this case), so it may sometimes be perceived as slowing the computer.
5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
I review my security software recommendations and update them for each weekly newsletter issue, if I think they need to change.
My Philosophy: Many people want to pick their most economical solution and prefer an all-in-one anti-virus, anti-spyware and firewall solution. In concept, that's a great idea. In actual practice, I don' think that this type of package is likely to be the best in all the protection categories you need.
Other people want to pick the best of each type program. I'm one of the these folks.
My choice of software that I am willing to recommend is driven by my search for software for me to use. I only recommend programs that I like and that I use. I will sometimes suggest alternatives to my recommendations, but I clearly note if I no longer use them.
Anti-Virus
I'm often asked about several other popular anti-virus or anti-virus combination packages. Yes, I realize that they are not in my recommendation list. "Enough said..."
From 2003 through mid-2008, my personal choice was ESET's small, fast NOD32 anti-virus program, which offers a FREE 30-day evaluation license. I still consider NOD32 to be one of the best in anti-virus protection — and it continues to get recognition and awards. Unlike some of its competitors, ESET offers multiple-year licenses also, and includes program updates in the multiple-year license.
However, I've changed from my long-time choices NOD32 (antivirus) and Sunbelt's CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's new VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I've found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks. Sunbelt Software offers multi-year licenses and home site licenses on its software, both of which include program updates as well as signature updates.
My anti-virus and anti-spyware choice for my computers and those of my family's computers is VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware
I'm often asked for alternatives to the programs that I recommend, especially by people who want to buy one package (a "suite") to do everything.
As a result, I tried a couple security suites in the last few months to pick a suite to recommend. ESET Smart Security 4 is my recommended suite alternative. Smart Security 4 has gotten great ratings and includes antivirus and antispyware, both from their current NOD32 v4 version, and antispam and firewall. I no longer use it and have returned to Sunbelt's VIPRE, but for a suite choice, that's what I would use.
Tech Tip
Many antivirus programs will offer you an anti-virus signature subscription renewal when your subscription renews. I strongly recommend against this option — buy the full program or make sure you get program updates with the subscription renewal. Both NOD32 and VIPRE purchases include both program updates/upgrades AND antivirus signature updates.
Vendors routinely improve the capabilities and speed of the programs, too. If you update only the signatures, you miss any program improvements.
Related articles:
- VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware Review
- A Look at ESET Smart Security 4
- Anti-Virus Programs and Online Scanners
- Free Online Antivirus Scan
- NOD32 Anti-Virus Review - A Look at NOD32
Firewall Software
While the Windows XP firewall is much better than no firewall at all, but don't count on the Windows XP firewall to meet your needs.
You need a two-way firewall, which the Windows XP firewall is not!. Microsoft woke up and supplied a two-way firewall with Windows Vista. However, Microsoft built in pre-authorization for many programs. Windows 7's firewall is also two-way, and again has pre-cleared many programs to communicate outbound to the Internet — some to go where you want to go, and some to "call home."
The Windows XP firewall does not control outbound communications originating from your computer — and you should want to have control if adware/trojans/spyware or even commercial products want to talk to the Internet. Whether they are calling home or spewing spam, you want to be able to control your computer.
Do you want Windows Media Player to call home every time you play something? It does! Do you use the Search function in Windows Explorer to find things on your hard drive? Did you know that every time you search, Windows Explorer talks to Microsoft?
I didn't know that when I ran ZoneAlarm, but the Sunbelt Personal Firewall flagged that to me, and I can stop it or allow it to happen. Many other programs try to call home when you run them, too.
I recommend my choice for a firewall program, which is Sunbelt Personal Firewall.
You can try the full-featured "paid version" of Sunbelt Personal Firewall free for 30 days — after that, you can register it or, if you're using it on a home non-business computer, you can let it revert to the free, lesser-function license.
Tip: Be sure to read my review of SPF for the settings I recommend.
At this time, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall works with Windows 2000, Windows XP and Windows Vista, in 32-bit versions only. Recently, Sunbelt announced that SPF should be available for 64-bit computers in the first quarter of 2010, including Windows 7 support. I can't wait.
Sunbelt Personal Firewall is regularly $19.95 (with discounts for multiple computers and/or multiple years!) for a non-expiring license for the program and includes one year of their updates subscription. A unlimited Home Site License is $39.95 for a year.
Related articles:
Anti-Spyware / Anti-Adware Software
CounterSpy, from Sunbelt Software, has received many kudos from the computer press for its always-running and periodic full system scans. It has been my personal choice for my PC's and my family's PC's.
Sunbelt's CounterSpy v2.5, both improved CounterSpy's performance against malware and reduced its impact on system resources and responsiveness when its scanning.
Sunbelt continues to release updated program versions — the current version is v3.1 — and there's an even newer version about to be released. Nicely, Sunbelt do NOT install the updated programs automatically. You have to use the Update process in the program, which means that you'll know that something significant has changed.
I changed from my long-time programs NOD32 (antivirus) and CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I've found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. My computer seems to have much more pep and power than it had previously. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks.
Related articles:
Anti-spam Software
In today's Internet world, the question is not "if" you will get spam, but "how much will you get?"
I use and recommend POPFile as my first choice for handling spam. POPFile sits on your computer, between your email program and your ISP mailbox, and handles emial as it downloads.
POPFile uses a different approach to handle spam than some other programs do — it does nothing to reduce spam. It is designed as an email classification tool — you train it to recognize spam and any other type of email that you want to classify. These classifications can help you sort your emails into appropriate folders in your email program.
Sunbelt Software, who makes the anti-spyware program CounterSpy (which I use and recommend) and the firewall that I use and recommend (Sunbelt Personal Firewall) also has a well-regarded, award-winning anti-spam program called iHateSpam for Outlook and Outlook Express. Since I don't use Outlook or Outlook Express for email, I haven't tried iHateSpam.
Mailwasher Pro would be my first choice to handle spam before it ever gets into your computer's Inbox. Mailwasher Pro uses on-line Realtime Black Lists mail servers sending spam recently, "training" by you of what you think is spam, and your own "friends" and "blacklist" lists. Note: I found that PopFile generally meets my needs and stopped using Mailwasher Pro, even though PopFile works AFTER the emails have been downloaded. If I used a dialup connection, I would be more interested in Mailwasher Pro.
Mailwasher Pro can even bounce spam messages, as if your email address was not valid, although the usefulness and appropriateness of this is questionable. There is a free version called "Mailwasher," but it omits the functions that I consider critical for this purpose -- such as safely previewing the emails safely before they ever get to your email inbox.
Related articles:
Backup Software
When we think of security software, we usually think of antivirus, firewall, antispyware and antispam software. But, what other kind of software is security software? Backup software, of course.
We need to make backup copies of our important data. That data may be financial, such as your checkbook in Quicken, or your spreadsheet tracking your investmants. Or, it may be personal, non-financial data such as digital family photos.
What if your hard drive won't start one day? What will you lose? What if your computer is stolen (let's ignore, for now, whether you should encrypt data on your hard drive to protect it from others — let's just think about the inconvenience and loss to us!)?
There are two basic types of backups you should do.
You need to regularly back up your individual data files to another computer, to an external hard drive, or even to an online repository (but realize, if you have to rebuild the data on your computer, it may have to be downloaded for days and days). An external hard drive is the best choice if you don't have a home network where you could copy to another computer.
If you have a home network, use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change. I have it scheduled to copy my data files every evening from my notebook to another computer at my home. You should also get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make occasional backup copies to it. Preferably store it at a relative's house or your safe deposit box.
If you don't have a home network, get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make regularly scheduled backup copies to it. Use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change to your external drive. Preferably, store one external drive at a relative's house or your safe deposit box, so that if the worst happens, you haven't lost irreplaceable photos and other information.
The other type of backup is an image backup. This gives the ultimate in quick restore capability. Just plug in the external drive, boot the cdrom, and restore the image back to your hard drive. I use Acronis True Image Home 2009 (they also have discounts for upgrades)to make backups across my network every three days. Once a month, I make a full backup image. Every three days, it makes an incremental backup — copying only those files that have changed.
Acronis True Image Home 2009 (and later) allow you to recover individual files and folders from the image files, so you don't have to restore everything. The nice thing about making my backup across the network is that I can restore individual files across the network from those images. Sometimes that's the easiest thing to do.
Why Replicator and Acronis True Image Home, if we can restore individual files from both? Replicator will always have the latest version it backed up — but not any earlier ones. With Acronis True Image, we can have multiple versions of the files to choose among. We can restore one that's months old, if we like, and not just the latest version.
Cable/DSL Router
If you have a cable modem or a DSL modem, you need to have another layer of inexpensive protection between you and the Internet. A cable/DSL router isolates your computer from direct connection to the Internet. Your computer can easily request your email, web pages, etc. through the router. The responses come back to the router and are smoothly routed to your computer. But, someone on the Internet side of the router can not initiate a connection to your computer — they can only respond to your request.
Even if you only have one computer to connect to your cable or DSL modem, I recommend that you purchase and use a cable/DSL router because of the protection it can give you against attempts to attack through some flaws in Windows itself.
A router isolates your local network, whether it is only one computer or several, from the Internet by actually making it a separate network. The router gets the "public" IP address and handles all your outbound communications and the responses to them. But, it blocks computers on the Internet side from being able to initiate communications with your computer! This will prevent you from falling prey to many worms that try to attack security holes in Windows itself.
For a wireless router, I still recommend the Linksys WRT54G wireless router. Now that the "n" specifications have become final, I'm watching for the routers to be labelled as meeting the final specifications. Too much equipment still is labelled as meeting "Draft n" specifications, including the wireless card options in the new Dell Precision M6500 mobile workstation (notebook) that was released on December 1st! The interoperability issue still concerns me. I want the wireless equipment to work together without compatibility problems between manufacturers.
If you don't want wireless, I recommend the Linksys BEFSR41 wired router, which I also use. Either way, based on my experience, I recommend Linksys routers for price, reliability and Linksys' habit of releasing updated firmware for their products..
Tech Tip
By the way, the new "802.11n" wireless specification was approved in September 2009. It had been expected to be approved in January 2010.
If you're shopping, look for some indication that the model meets the final, approved standard. The "n" routers sold in the last couple years were based on different drafts of the standard.
I'm planning to switch from 802.11g to 802.11n, but not until January or February. I want the router manufacturers to have a chance to get their firmware upgrades done for 802.11n compliance, or to release new models in case they need to.
See these related articles:
Volume 5, Number 35 — Sunday, February 7, 2010
Copyright © 2010 Terry A. Stockdale. All rights reserved.
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