Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
December 27, 2009
Terry's Computer Tips Newsletter
http://www.terryscomputertips.com
A computer tips newsletter for users of PC's.
Volume 5, Number 29 — Sunday, December 27, 2009
IN THIS ON-LINE ISSUE:
1. My New Home Theater PC
2. The Lighter Side of Technology
3. My Home Theater PC Hardware Selections
4. What Else Is Needed For A Home Theater PC?
5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
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Welcome to the on-line edition of my Terry's Computer Tips newsletter. Its articles are not in the email issue — and the email articles aren't in the online issue — subscribe to my email newsletter so you can read both.
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1. My New Home Theater PC
I realized that I haven't written about the new home theater PC that I've built. I've mentioned it a few times, but without any details.
First, why did I do it? If you use a TiVo® or a digital video recorder (DVR) from your cable company or satellite company, you have a basic idea.
I considered the cable company's DVR, and even rented one for a while. I quickly ran into trouble with it, as it recorded more shows, needed more space, and started deleting recordings before I had gotten around to watching them. Ouch!
I had my old home theater PC, which I built in 2004 (you can see it at Terry's Home Theater. It was getting kind of old — the motherboard could not take PCI-E cards, which is the slot required by today's tuner cards, it could not record digital channnels, and, although I didn't realize it, the aging of the tuner cards was starting to give fuzzy recordings.
So, I decided it was time to build the new system.
I knew that I would continue using SageTV as my home theater PC software. Therefore, my first step was to decide which tuner card I wanted to use. My choice was the Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250.
I've been using Hauppauge PVR-250 and PVR-150 cards in my old home theater PC, so I knew this was the brand I would use. These new cards have one input for RG59/RG6 antenna cable, but that one cable connection drives two internal tuners which can be configured as analog tuners or digital tuners.
I briefly considered buying a computer to use as the base for my home theater PC. However, I had particular desires regarding available slots on the motherboard (one or two PCI slots for my old tuners plus at least three PCI-E slots for the video card and two PCI-E tuner cards. Oh, yeah,and lots of room for hard drives.
That put me in the mode of building my own computer again. So, I went shopping...
There are two basic facets to the shopping — (1) the PC itself and (2) the hardware to make the PC into a home theater PC. There's a surprisingly large amount of cost in the latter, but it can be done in incremental stages (e.g., one hard drive and one tuner card to start) if you like.
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2. The Lighter Side of Technology
This week's Terry's Computer Tips technology cartoon from www.ineedacartoon.com .

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3. My Home Theater PC Hardware Selections
I did most of my shopping at NewEgg.
First, let's look at the PC hardware I selected and why I picked that hardware. My intent was that this home theater PC would last four years or more, without upgrading.
I also intended for it to be lighter than my previous all-steel Antec case, and to allow me to easily make changes and expansions.
The Case:
I chose the light-weight Lian Li PC-A71F black aluminum ATX full tower case from NewEgg. This case is extremely easy to work with. No screwdriver was needed to set up the PC, other than a small phillips-head screwdriver for mounting the motherboard.
The case uses thumb screws to hold the removable case sides and to hold the power supply into place. There's an innovative and effective locking mechanism for PCI and PCI-E cards.
There's also an effective locking tool-less locking mechanism for CD/DVD drives and an easy-to-use design for installing hard drives. Finally, there's an internal metal strap to lock the power supply into place. The price was definitely aimed at the enthusiast who makes lots of changes, as the case without power supply was almost as much as a cheap computer. Price: $239.99.
![]() | Lian Li PC-A71F black aluminum ATX full tower case With Power Supply: No Power Supply Mounted: Bottom Motherboard Compatibility: E-ATX / ATX / M-ATX With Side Panel Window: No External 5.25" Drive Bays: 5 External 3.5" Drive Bays: 1(Uses one 5.25" Drive Bays) Internal 3.5" Drive Bays: 10 Expansion Slots: 7 |
The Motherboard:
Interestingly, the Gigabyte motherboard I chose at the end of October has already been rereleased in an improved version. My Gigabyte GA-P55-UD4P motherboard has USB 2.0 and SATA II (3 GB/second) at a price of $170. With the new revision to USB 3.0 and SATA III, the motherboard went up in price by $15. Price: $170.
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GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P ATX Intel Motherboard w/ USB 3.0 & SATA 6 Gb/s CPU Type: Core i7 (LGA1156)/i5 (LGA1156) Number of Memory Slots: 4, 240pin Memory Standard: DDR3 2200/1600/1333/1066/80 Support for Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) memory modules Maximum Memory Supported: 16GB Channel Supported: Dual Channel PCI Express 2.0 x16: 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x16 (PCIEX16) 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x8 (PCIEX8) PCI Express x1: 3 PCI Slots: 2 |
The CPU:
I chose the Intel Core i7-860 processor, running at 2.8GHz. This processor is at the middle of Intel's Core i7 product line, and is at the "sweet spot" in pricing — meaning it's slightly more expensive than the less-capable model, and way less inexpensive than the next more-capable model. Price $290.
![]() | Intel Core i7-860 2.8GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor
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The CPU Cooler:
I picked the Thermaltake Silent 1156 CLP0552 92mm CPU cooler to replace the standard heatsink and fan that came with the Intel Core i7-860. This monster is doing its job without any complaints. I sure was surprised at its size when I opened the box — it's a big tower of cooling. Price $30.
![]() | Thermaltake Silent 1156 CLP0552 92mm CPU Cooler For Intel Socket LGA1156
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The Memory:
I chose G.Skill Trident 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3 2000 (PC-16000) memory modules to use. G.Skill is not as well known as some of the other memory companies. However, the Gigabyte web site had a table of tested compatible memory, and this one was included. That took out any concern about compatibility issues.
I bought 8GB of RAM for the home theater PC, since I planned to run Windows 7 Professional 64-bit. Even though SageTV uses the 32-bit version of Java, the extra memory will mean that I can run other applications simultaneously with less interference with the HTPC's recording and playback functions. Price: $250 (2 at $125).
![]() | G.SKILL Trident 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Desktop Memory
Cas Latency: 9 Timing: 9-9-9-27 Voltage: 1.6V ECC: No Buffered/Registered: Unbuffered Multi-channel Kit: Dual Channel Kit Heat Spreader: Yes Features: Specifically Designed to compatible with Intel Core i5 and Core i7 for Intel P55 motherboard |
The Power Supply
We have to have something to supply power to the motherboard and drives. My case did not come with a power supply, so I chose the Antec TruePower TP-750, which is a 750-watt continuous power ATX power supply. Price: $115.
![]() | Antec TruePower New TP-750 750W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Retail |
The Operating System:
Thank you, Microsoft. NOT!
Microsoft changed the operating system license from the Windows XP days. The "System Builder" Windows 7 license is limited in the license agreement to be applicable only to PC's being built for resale to unrelated third parties.
I guess this was Microsoft's solution to enthusiasts who change motherboards and processors — MS thinks a new motherboard and processor equals a new computer and that you need to buy a new copy of Windows. The Retail version of Windows, as opposed to the System Builder version (formerly called the OEM version) is transferrable to other PC's, as long as it is only installed on one PC at a time.
So, to stay legal with the license agreement, by building my own PC I had to purchase the Windows 7 Professional Retail version instead of a System Builder version. This cost me an additional $140 over the System Builder version. Price: $282.
![]() | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional Full
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The DVD Burner:
Since I need a DVD drive to install Windows and occasional software, I bought a Samsung Black 22X DVD burner, SATA model SH-S223B. This is an OEM model sold by NewEgg. Price: $37.
The Hard Drives:
I installed one hard drive specifically for the operating system and program software. I installed a second hard drive for the video recording, so I could watch the shows later.
That's the big purpose of TiVo's and home theater PC's — time shifting. I know I want to watch something, but I want to watch it on my own schedule, not when it's broadcast.
For the boot drive, I chose a Samsung Spinpoint F1 HD753LJ. This is 750GB 7200 RPM SATA drive at 3.0Gb/s throughput. Price: $65.
For my data drive, I chose an Hitachi Deskstar HD32000 IDK/7K. The Hitachi is a 2TB drive (2,000GB) that runs at 7200 RPM and 3.0Gb/s SATA speed. Price: $180.
![]() | SAMSUNG Spinpoint F1 HD753LJ 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive -Bare Drive
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![]() | HITACHI Deskstar 2TB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive -Retail
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The Video Card
I "cheaped out" on the video card. My requirements were that it have a VGA output, HDMI output and that it be quiet. My choice was a PowerColor AX4350, which is based on the Radeon HD4350 graphics chip with 256MB 64-bit GDDR2.
The card is designed for a PCI-E 2.0 x16 motherboard slot. It also supports CrossFire (ATI's dual-video-card design for gamers), although I don't plan that for my home theater PC. Price: $35.
![]() | POWERCOLOR Radeon HD 4350 AX4350 512MD2-H Video Card
Chipset Manufacturer: ATI Core Clock: 600MHz Stream Processors: 80 Stream Processing Units Memory Clock: 800MHz DirectX: DirectX 10.1 OpenGL: OpenGL 2.0 HDMI: 1 x HDMI D-SUB: 1 x D-SUB |
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4. What Else Is Needed For A Home Theater PC?
After you've built your base, expandable PC, there's not a lot needed to make it into a home theater PC.
Those required things are:
- home theater PC software, and
- a TV tuner card or TV tuner USB device
If you're going to use Windows 7, you can choose to use the Windows Media Center software that's included as part of Windows 7. You don't have to use it, though.
My choice is still the SageTV Media Center (www.sagetv.com) software that I've used since 2004. One of the major advantages of SageTV is that you can use multiple hard drives. SageTV can automatically record to any of several, independent, hard drives that you set as its main drives, and it can also read and play shows that you may have on other hard drives (the "imported videos" drives).
Windows Media Center, the last time I checked, could only do this by treating multiple hard drives as one large logical hard drive. The problem with that approach is that all your eggs are in one basket. If any drive fails, you'll probably lose all the information stored on all of them!
The other thing you need is a TV tuner card or TV tuner USB device. The key is to make sure that your software supports the card or device before you buy it.
Some TV devices are for display only; that is, they have tuner software included and will tune and display the television show on the computer monitor. But, they don't make a stream of video available to be recorded.
SageTV has a list of supported tuners listed on its System Requirements page.
My choice is the Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250 PCI-E tuner card.
![]() | Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250 Media Center Kit Dual TV Tuner 1213 PCI-Express x1 Interface - Retail |
This card is a dual tuner card, able to handle ATSC (analog over-the-air or analog over-cable) and ClearQAM digital signals. The card has hardware encoding, meaning that the card will handle the realtime conversion of the signal to a recordable digital format, as opposed to forcing the CPU to do the work.
That's the minimum to be operational. At this point, you can add another 2250 card, as I did, so that I have 4 tuners available.
You can also add additional hard drives.
By the way, SageTV will do slideshows of your pictures and will play your MP3 files, too, in addition to playing the MPEG-2 (.mpg) video files it records.
As usual with my computer systems, my home theater PC runs Sunbelt VIPRE Antivirus+Antispyware. As soon as Sunbelt releases Sunbelt Personal Firewall for Windows 7, due in 1Q2010, I plan to use SPF to replace the Windows 7 firewall that I'm currently using.
5. My Computer Security Software Recommendations
I review my security software recommendations and update them for each weekly newsletter issue, if I think they need to change.
My Philosophy: Many people want to pick their most economical solution and prefer an all-in-one anti-virus, anti-spyware and firewall solution. In concept, that's a great idea. In actual practice, I don' think that this type of package is likely to be the best in all the protection categories you need.
Other people want to pick the best of each type program. I'm one of the these folks.
My choice of software that I am willing to recommend is driven by my search for software for me to use. I only recommend programs that I like and that I use. I will sometimes suggest alternatives to my recommendations, but I clearly note if I no longer use them.
Anti-Virus
I'm often asked about several other popular anti-virus or anti-virus combination packages. Yes, I realize that they are not in my recommendation list. "Enough said..."
From 2003 through mid-2008, my personal choice was ESET's small, fast NOD32 anti-virus program, which offers a FREE 30-day evaluation license. I still consider NOD32 to be one of the best in anti-virus protection — and it continues to get recognition and awards. Unlike some of its competitors, ESET offers multiple-year licenses also, and includes program updates in the multiple-year license.
However, I've changed from my long-time choices NOD32 (antivirus) and Sunbelt's CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's new VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I've found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks. Sunbelt Software offers multi-year licenses and home site licenses on its software, both of which include program updates as well as signature updates.
My anti-virus and anti-spyware choice for my computers and those of my family's computers is VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware
I'm often asked for alternatives to the programs that I recommend, especially by people who want to buy one package (a "suite") to do everything.
As a result, I tried a couple security suites in the last few months to pick a suite to recommend. ESET Smart Security 4 is my recommended suite alternative. Smart Security 4 has gotten great ratings and includes antivirus and antispyware, both from their current NOD32 v4 version, and antispam and firewall. I no longer use it and have returned to Sunbelt's VIPRE, but for a suite choice, that's what I would use.
Tech Tip
Many antivirus programs will offer you an anti-virus signature subscription renewal when your subscription renews. I strongly recommend against this option — buy the full program or make sure you get program updates with the subscription renewal. Both NOD32 and VIPRE purchases include both program updates/upgrades AND antivirus signature updates.
Vendors routinely improve the capabilities and speed of the programs, too. If you update only the signatures, you miss any program improvements.
Related articles:
- VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware Review
- A Look at ESET Smart Security 4
- Anti-Virus Programs and Online Scanners
- Free Online Antivirus Scan
- NOD32 Anti-Virus Review - A Look at NOD32
Firewall Software
While the Windows XP firewall is much better than no firewall at all, but don't count on the Windows XP firewall to meet your needs.
You need a two-way firewall, which the Windows XP firewall is not!. Microsoft woke up and supplied a two-way firewall with Windows Vista. However, Microsoft built in pre-authorization for many programs. Windows 7's firewall is also two-way, and again has pre-cleared many programs to communicate outbound to the Internet — some to go where you want to go, and some to "call home."
The Windows XP firewall does not control outbound communications originating from your computer — and you should want to have control if adware/trojans/spyware or even commercial products want to talk to the Internet. Whether they are calling home or spewing spam, you want to be able to control your computer.
Do you want Windows Media Player to call home every time you play something? It does! Do you use the Search function in Windows Explorer to find things on your hard drive? Did you know that every time you search, Windows Explorer talks to Microsoft?
I didn't know that when I ran ZoneAlarm, but the Sunbelt Personal Firewall flagged that to me, and I can stop it or allow it to happen. Many other programs try to call home when you run them, too.
I recommend my choice for a firewall program, which is Sunbelt Personal Firewall.
You can try the full-featured "paid version" of Sunbelt Personal Firewall free for 30 days — after that, you can register it or, if you're using it on a home non-business computer, you can let it revert to the free, lesser-function license.
Tip: Be sure to read my review of SPF for the settings I recommend.
At this time, the Sunbelt Personal Firewall works with Windows 2000, Windows XP and Windows Vista, in 32-bit versions only. Recently, Sunbelt announced that SPF should be available for 64-bit computers in the first quarter of 2010, including Windows 7 support. I can't wait.
Sunbelt Personal Firewall is regularly $19.95 (with discounts for multiple computers and/or multiple years!) for a non-expiring license for the program and includes one year of their updates subscription. A unlimited Home Site License is $39.95 for a year.
Related articles:
Anti-Spyware / Anti-Adware Software
CounterSpy, from Sunbelt Software, has received many kudos from the computer press for its always-running and periodic full system scans. It has been my personal choice for my PC's and my family's PC's.
Sunbelt's CounterSpy v2.5, both improved CounterSpy's performance against malware and reduced its impact on system resources and responsiveness when its scanning.
Sunbelt continues to release updated program versions — the current version is v3.1 — and there's an even newer version about to be released. Nicely, Sunbelt do NOT install the updated programs automatically. You have to use the Update process in the program, which means that you'll know that something significant has changed.
I changed from my long-time programs NOD32 (antivirus) and CounterSpy (antispyware) to Sunbelt's VIPRE Antivirus + Antispyware.
I've found that VIPRE puts even less load on my computer than the speedy combination of NOD32 and CounterSpy. My computer seems to have much more pep and power than it had previously. I've also been impressed with the way its "deep scan" has found and eliminated risks that were stored in zip files, which is one of the latest malware email tricks.
Related articles:
Anti-spam Software
In today's Internet world, the question is not "if" you will get spam, but "how much will you get?"
I use and recommend POPFile as my first choice for handling spam. POPFile sits on your computer, between your email program and your ISP mailbox, and handles emial as it downloads.
POPFile uses a different approach to handle spam than some other programs do — it does nothing to reduce spam. It is designed as an email classification tool — you train it to recognize spam and any other type of email that you want to classify. These classifications can help you sort your emails into appropriate folders in your email program.
Sunbelt Software, who makes the anti-spyware program CounterSpy (which I use and recommend) and the firewall that I use and recommend (Sunbelt Personal Firewall) also has a well-regarded, award-winning anti-spam program called iHateSpam for Outlook and Outlook Express. Since I don't use Outlook or Outlook Express for email, I haven't tried iHateSpam.
Mailwasher Pro would be my first choice to handle spam before it ever gets into your computer's Inbox. Mailwasher Pro uses on-line Realtime Black Lists mail servers sending spam recently, "training" by you of what you think is spam, and your own "friends" and "blacklist" lists. Note: I found that PopFile generally meets my needs and stopped using Mailwasher Pro, even though PopFile works AFTER the emails have been downloaded. If I used a dialup connection, I would be more interested in Mailwasher Pro.
Mailwasher Pro can even bounce spam messages, as if your email address was not valid, although the usefulness and appropriateness of this is questionable. There is a free version called "Mailwasher," but it omits the functions that I consider critical for this purpose -- such as safely previewing the emails safely before they ever get to your email inbox.
Related articles:
Backup Software
When we think of security software, we usually think of antivirus, firewall, antispyware and antispam software. But, what other kind of software is security software? Backup software, of course.
We need to make backup copies of our important data. That data may be financial, such as your checkbook in Quicken, or your spreadsheet tracking your investmants. Or, it may be personal, non-financial data such as digital family photos.
What if your hard drive won't start one day? What will you lose? What if your computer is stolen (let's ignore, for now, whether you should encrypt data on your hard drive to protect it from others — let's just think about the inconvenience and loss to us!)?
There are two basic types of backups you should do.
You need to regularly back up your individual data files to another computer, to an external hard drive, or even to an online repository (but realize, if you have to rebuild the data on your computer, it may have to be downloaded for days and days). An external hard drive is the best choice if you don't have a home network where you could copy to another computer.
If you have a home network, use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change. I have it scheduled to copy my data files every evening from my notebook to another computer at my home. You should also get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make occasional backup copies to it. Preferably store it at a relative's house or your safe deposit box.
If you don't have a home network, get an external hard drive (or two, so you can alternate them) and make regularly scheduled backup copies to it. Use Karen's Replicator (free for personal, non-business use) to back up the files that change to your external drive. Preferably, store one external drive at a relative's house or your safe deposit box, so that if the worst happens, you haven't lost irreplaceable photos and other information.
The other type of backup is an image backup. This gives the ultimate in quick restore capability. Just plug in the external drive, boot the cdrom, and restore the image back to your hard drive. I use Acronis True Image Home 2009 (they also have discounts for upgrades)to make backups across my network every three days. Once a month, I make a full backup image. Every three days, it makes an incremental backup — copying only those files that have changed.
Acronis True Image Home 2009 (and later) allow you to recover individual files and folders from the image files, so you don't have to restore everything. The nice thing about making my backup across the network is that I can restore individual files across the network from those images. Sometimes that's the easiest thing to do.
Why Replicator and Acronis True Image Home, if we can restore individual files from both? Replicator will always have the latest version it backed up — but not any earlier ones. With Acronis True Image, we can have multiple versions of the files to choose among. We can restore one that's months old, if we like, and not just the latest version.
Cable/DSL Router
If you have a cable modem or a DSL modem, you need to have another layer of inexpensive protection between you and the Internet. A cable/DSL router isolates your computer from direct connection to the Internet. Your computer can easily request your email, web pages, etc. through the router. The responses come back to the router and are smoothly routed to your computer. But, someone on the Internet side of the router can not initiate a connection to your computer — they can only respond to your request.
Even if you only have one computer to connect to your cable or DSL modem, I recommend that you purchase and use a cable/DSL router because of the protection it can give you against attempts to attack through some flaws in Windows itself.
A router isolates your local network, whether it is only one computer or several, from the Internet by actually making it a separate network. The router gets the "public" IP address and handles all your outbound communications and the responses to them. But, it blocks computers on the Internet side from being able to initiate communications with your computer! This will prevent you from falling prey to many worms that try to attack security holes in Windows itself.
For a wireless router, I still recommend the Linksys WRT54G wireless router. Now that the "n" specifications have become final, I'm watching for the routers to be labelled as meeting the final specifications. Too much equipment still is labelled as meeting "Draft n" specifications, including the wireless card options in the new Dell Precision M6500 mobile workstation (notebook) that was released on December 1st! The interoperability issue still concerns me. I want the wireless equipment to work together without compatibility problems between manufacturers.
If you don't want wireless, I recommend the Linksys BEFSR41 wired router, which I also use. Either way, based on my experience, I recommend Linksys routers for price, reliability and Linksys' habit of releasing updated firmware for their products..
Tech Tip
By the way, the new "802.11n" wireless specification was approved in September 2009. It had been expected to be approved in January 2010.
If you're shopping, look for some indication that the model meets the final, approved standard. The "n" routers sold in the last couple years were based on different drafts of the standard.
I'm planning to switch from 802.11g to 802.11n, but not until January or February. I want the router manufacturers to have a chance to get their firmware upgrades done for 802.11n compliance, or to release new models in case they need to.
See these related articles:
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Volume 5, Number 29 — Sunday, December 27, 2009
Copyright © 2009 Terry A. Stockdale. All rights reserved.
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